1. In order to combat the SPAM challenges we have been facing, I have chosen for the registration of new forum members to be manually approved. If you are registering as a new member, please fill out your profile as much as your comfortable doing. By doing this it shows us that you are not a spammer and will ensure that you’re registered to the form quickly. Should you be denied by mistake, please reapply with a fully completed profile
  2. I have received a lot of messages asking about the future of the forums once my car sells. Well today it sold and will soon be on its way to its new home. With that said, for the forums, there is more information under 'Announcements" titled "Future of the Forums' you could also copy and paste this link: http://www.trabantforums.com/threads/future-of-the-forums-donations.1762/
  1. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    So I was outside tonight, and a yellow 601 showed up on a trailer.

    The very same yellow trabbi that has been for sale here.;)

    The car was delivered from Tennessee to Virginia in one day. Now that even beats Amazon prime shipping!

    I'm gitty with anticipation to put it back together. Already ordered a pewter trabbi on a key chain.

    Here a few few quick pics..

    Thanks Justin!

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    Justin likes this.
  2. Justin

    Justin Owner Administrator

    I hope you love her. She was a good car. I know she’s found a good home with you.
  3. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    I'll do my best. The shipper even yanked it up my driveway with a racing buggy type vehicle. That trabbi was flyin!
    Justin likes this.
  4. Justin

    Justin Owner Administrator

    I’m sure that was a sight
  5. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Yeah, he also said this little car would stop traffic anywhere he parked with it. Since he didn't know much about it-folks keep asking him everything imaginable..
  6. Justin

    Justin Owner Administrator

    Haha that’s a very, very true statement
  7. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    On a side note, how loud is that air horn? :)
  8. Justin

    Justin Owner Administrator

    It’s not that loud. Just louder than the stock one. It can be scary driving. People don’t always see you. The factory horn should be in one of the parts boxes
    RogerDerSchrauber likes this.
  9. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    I'll leave it in place..
  10. Justin

    Justin Owner Administrator

    When you drive it, you’ll see why that’s a good choice :)
  11. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    I figured that. The car looks like a banana on wheels,

    "I love it".
    Justin likes this.
  12. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    So its been a few days. The engine and trans are bolted back in. Exhaust tightened. Rack booty installed. Fan clamp crack helped with bolts and a little steel piece. New battery , and belt bought, wheel bearings ordered, carb bowl, cylinder head base, and exhaust gaskets made.

    So far-besides misc nuts and bolts, the only thing missing was the exhaust hanger bracket(goes onto the trans). Luckily I have a large cotton vehicle shaped box of parts near the car...:rolleyes:

    Before the bearings come, I need to clear a path to the shop press....

    Slow but steady progress!
    Justin likes this.
  13. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Got the car mostly back together today. This is more of a trying out all of the parts together, to see what I need from oversea's. Motor mounts, and a clutch cable are a must. Anyway, it fired right up, now it has a dead spot in the throttle, but that could be in the carb, and or timing. These things matter little.

    Still sounds nice though! I used ATF for the trans.

  14. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Today one wheel bearing got pressed in, wheel cylinders put on too. I'll rebuild the old cylinders later. The new ones got a coat of hammer tone paint. Now I'm trying to fiddle with those cursed axle needle bearings.

    Greased up the front right spindle, turns smooth as butter now!
  15. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Got the right front axle boots, and needle bearings back together . So that axle & hub are torqued down now. Not even a little bit of play!

    One a side note, the outer surface of the hub looks like it was beaten within an inch of its life. I'd bet a wheel bearing locked up years ago.... :rolleyes:

    She got new brakes too.

    I find it neat this car uses tight springs as cv boot clamps.

    Only had one, so it went on the tranny side, a normal cv type clamp on the outer.

    Maybe, just maybe I can be done with this side tomorrowo_O...

    Eventual there will be many pictures of all of this, added back into the posts.

    I need a camera crew documenting the progress!
  16. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Finally today the front right wheel stuff was finished.

    Did you know a new wheel cylinder that gets busted from gently tightening the bleeder screw doesn't make a sound?....

    The guy with the wrench sure does! :eek:

    Thankfully I have many spares.

    Since the car is so light, and on loose gravel, I cant get the wheel nuts off the other side. The brakes are unhooked, axle out, and my impact has no power to pop them loose.

    Always the little things huh?

    Just bumped the key, and it fired right up. Doesn't sound like it is firing on both cylinders... I'll tackle this after the front end stuff. One must pick their battles.
  17. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    If you find there is something wrong with the EBZA ignition, and the GM HEI 4 pin control module won't fix it, I think I've come up with a way to eliminate that advance mechanism altogether so the electronic ignition kit would fit engines with points and ones with the EBZA system.

    I cut down some 1/4" NPT pipe, the same length as the advance mechanism and hogged out the center with a 5/16" inch drill bit. A piece of 1/2" copper pipe will slide over this piece and the magnet ring will pop onto the piece of copper. I'm going to try to solder it first and if that doesn't work I'll use some 3M structure adhesive. That stuff is pretty strong.

    I also have to cut a slot in the base like the advance mechanism and I'm assuming the EBZA trigger ring.

    I made some more plates out of fiberglass.

    I found the hinge type bearings and seals from a local bearing supplier. I just copied the numbers off the website. He matched the grease seal up from the numbers stamped on it. The only difference was the ones I installed were sealed. Since most front wheel drive wheel bearings are sealed (even the CV joint type on Trabants), I didn't think it was a big deal. Mine was making a thumping sound yet no vibration from the steering wheel.
  18. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    My wheel bearings looked to have been glowing blue at one point! Thats what cracked the seal, and pumped the grease all over the backing plates.

    Since mine has the cv axles, it uses regular sealed bearings.

    I checked the EBZA today, it throws a nice blue spark on both plugs. Good to know you have figured out an adapter! :D

    I rented a compression tester too, it didn't work at all. My old tester claimed Exactly 80 psi for both cylinders. Now I know for a fact this is wrong, and that this tester broke years ago.

    Just don't see how a car with 80 psi could instantly fire with a bump of the key... Also had fuel pouring out of the carb, and the car doesn't like any choke-at all. So me thinks it is fuel related.

    Before my overseas parts order, I'll confirm the psi....
  19. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I had the same thing happen to my compression tester. Last time (when it worked) I used it was to check the compression on my Trabant. If I remember correctly I got something like 135# in one cylinder and 125# in the other. I've heard readings should be within 10% of each other. Well according this website:

    https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a8520/cars-101-how-to-do-a-compression-test-14912158/

    Anyway when I went to use it a year later, it didn't seem to work. Or read incredibly low. So I had to get another one.

    I'm assuming the crankshaft ends between the EBZA and points are the same. There should be an alignment peg in the end of the crankshaft on all engines. Meaning if you wanted to replace a failed EBZA unit with points, the advance mechanism and breaker plate should bolt right up. I've got a spare engine that came with a 12 volt alternator (in fact it's the same one that's on your car!) but the engine has points. It was my understanding 12 volt alternators and EBZA systems were installed at the same time and no 12 volt cars came from the factory with a points system.

    Finding the correct size pipe without having to do any major machining on it has been a challenge. So far the closest thing I've found is a piece of 1/4" NPT water pipe and a piece of 1/2" copper tubing. Looks like using 3M structural adhesive epoxy is the plan on securing the copper tubing to the pipe. That stuff is pretty good.

    I need a piece of pipe with an ID of 8 mm (5/16") an OD of 13 mm (1/2"). Then for the magnetic ring to slide on snugly, the other end needs to be about 14 mm (9/16") . I guess if I could find a piece of pipe (preferably brass or aluminum) that is 9/16" OD, I could just machine the portion end of the pipe down to 13 mm so it slides into the end of the crankshaft.

    After I cut the plate out with a 3.5" hole saw, it was a wee too big. Something like 2 to 3 mm. So here is my makeshift lathe using my drill press.

    lathe.jpg

    Fiberglass is tough stuff! And makes quite a mess when you start filing or sanding on it. It took a few minutes to shave 3 mm off the outside of the first disc I made using this file. I keep my drill press set on the slowest speed possible @ 600 rpms. Less likely to overheat cheap Harbor Freight drill bits but takes longer.

    To cut the alignment curves, I'm going to use a compass to draw the circumference where the alignment slots will be located. The plan is to clamp this same bolt down in my drill press vice but not tighten the nuts. Then carefully spin the plate and drill into the circle I've drawn with my compass. I don't have any milling bits to clean up the holes. A drill bit doesn't work too well as a milling bit. I'm thinking of using a small circular file in my drill press. I've got a Dremel tool but the slots I cleaned up on my first plate looked too sloppy as you can see from the photo.

    Got any suggestions on that?

    I'm probably putting way too much thought into this electronic ignition system. I guess I just like to challenge myself.

    BTW, what's your plan on your other Trabbi? Is it going to be a parts car or are you going to sell it? If your going to sell it, what all is wrong with it?

    It would be cool to find one that needs way too much work to do a proper restoration and "bastardize it" but putting a 2 cylinder snowmobile engine it. Like one with a blown motor or bits and pieces robbed from it that wouldn't be needed.

    The one I have in mind is an 2 cylinder, air cooled, 2 stroke Arctic Cat 580 which makes around 60 HP! But living in the south means there are no snowmobiles around here. But plenty of ATVs.
  20. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    80 is about right for a worn engine compression

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