1. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Loyal Comrade

    This may or may not apply to the EBZA system but when I setup my aftermarket electronic ignition system, I had a devil of a time trying to get the static timing set to TDC. It took me five attempts. The first problem was the 6 to 12 volt converter on the board fried almost immedietly for some reason.

    When the ring of magnets slides onto the points lobe, it "feels" like it goes on correctly but doesn't.

    I found TDC on #1 cylinder and #2, cylinders. I used one of those small slide rulers that fits in your shift pocket. I've since purchased one of those cheap depth guage tools but haven't used it.

    I made my reference marks on the engine block and crankshaft pulley for each cylinder then used a timing light to figure out when the ignition was firing.

    This is a first . I've never checked the ignition timing using a timing light with the engine NOT running.

    Turn the ignition on and rotate the engine over clockwise by hand slowly until the light flashes. After doing this, I realized the engine was firing something like 10 degrees ATDC. So I removed the plastic ring and kept moving it back a few degrees, rotated the engine again over and over a few times until the light flashed when the marked lined up. Made some reference marks with white paint just in case. Then tightened the set screw and started the engine. Now it finally runs!

    Then rotated the plate until the #1 cylinder marks were aligned. Luckily my engine was not out of phase so #1 and #2 cylinders were spot on.
  2. Zausel

    Zausel Loyal Comrade

    Brute force it is...thanks
  3. Keri

    Keri Leader

    Another not-terribly-elegant solution involves using a dial indicator with a socket extension. Using a dial indicator is the easiest method I've found.
    Knowing where TDC itself is is not usually necessary, except for certain aftermarket ignition systems.

    Knowing where 4mm / 24º 30' BTDC is, for points systems or 3mm / 21º BTDC for EBZA is necessary. Zwickau thoughtfully put timing marks the pulley, which "should" be accurate for Cyl. #2 , but can be off rather a lot for Cyl. #1 (flywheel end).
    Because of this possibility of crankshaft phasing error it's a very good idea to check actual piston position with a measuring device of some sort.
    That is why the breaker plate for both systems can set the timing separately for each cylinder.

    Interestingly, EBZA operates even at 0-1 RPM. You can hook up a low voltage test light to coil negative and turn the motor slowly by hand and watch the light go out to set timing.
    Make absolutely sure the spark plugs are disconnected or better, removed before trying this!

    By the way, never, ever try to turn the motor by rotating the EBZA sensor! The "towing arm" that drives it is extremely fragile. Use the fan blade to turn the motor by hand.
  4. Zausel

    Zausel Loyal Comrade

    I love your posts Keri! Just got it started with the new engine and the timing seems fine, but I'll check when I am finished playing with it...I've had it seven and a half years and only have a few hundred miles on it.
  5. RogerDerSchrauber

    RogerDerSchrauber Loyal Comrade

    Of course, once the motor with EBZA ignition is tuned, how often does one need to adjust it? I find if my 89 ever starts running rough, I clean the plugs with a bronze brush and gap them (Isolator m14/225) @ 0.6mm, and the car runs splendidly again. Is it otherwise a matter of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"?
  6. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    With the ebza system once the timings set it should stay tbere as theres no touching parts to wear,as you said if its not broken dont fix it,once you start looking for problems you start finding them
    RogerDerSchrauber likes this.
  7. Zausel

    Zausel Loyal Comrade

    I wont be touching the timing then. It runs fine.

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