1. In order to combat the SPAM challenges we have been facing, I have chosen for the registration of new forum members to be manually approved. If you are registering as a new member, please fill out your profile as much as your comfortable doing. By doing this it shows us that you are not a spammer and will ensure that you’re registered to the form quickly. Should you be denied by mistake, please reapply with a fully completed profile
  2. I have received a lot of messages asking about the future of the forums once my car sells. Well today it sold and will soon be on its way to its new home. With that said, for the forums, there is more information under 'Announcements" titled "Future of the Forums' you could also copy and paste this link: http://www.trabantforums.com/threads/future-of-the-forums-donations.1762/
  1. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Since I couldn't work outside yesterday due to the rain from the hurricane, I decided to work on my Trabbi that had been down for almost three months. I've been using my spare time working on my storage building. it's 95% complete.

    First of all I got my axle installed yesterday. You are looking at a CV joint boot from a 1999 to 2010 Chevrolet/GMC Suburban/pickup truck. It fits better than the original! HAH!

    IMG_20181011_114656386.jpg

    I worked on my electronic ignition system while I had the wheel off:

    IMG_20181011_151241881.jpg

    The board is made of Lexan (same material as a compact disc) and I sprayed some LockTite adhesive onto the board with aluminum foil on both sides. Self adhesive aluminum tape would have been a better choice. So the board doesn't look all that great.

    I removed two of the opposing magnets in the black ring and filled them in with super glue and baking soda which sets up like concrete within a minute so each cylinder fires every 180 degrees instead of every 90 degrees. This is a wasted spark system like what my Citroen and Subaru uses. There is no starter retard mechanism. The trigger wire (black wire) is connected to the - side of both coils.

    The engine idles much better than on a new set of points. The downside. Unlike the other electronic ignition system I had been using, this one requires a compromise. I got one cylinder to fire at 4mm BTDC but the other cylinder wanted to fire at 8mm BTDC. Yet the engine idled smoothly. But I thought that was too much advance for that cylinder.

    Since I can't seem to get both cylinders to fire spot on at 4 mm BTDC, I compromised so that one cylinder fires at say 2 mm BDTC and the other one fires at 6mm BTDC. But this doesn't seem to have any ill effects has far as idling or drivability. I had to car up to over 100 KM/H.

    I read on the internet that the gap between the transistor (in the red module) and the magnet can affect the timing. This may be the cause. When the other magnet moves across the transistor, the gap maybe different. The only way to solve this is with using 2 modules.

    I'm more concerned about the other cylinder firing with too much advance but since these engines have such a low compression ratio, 87 octane is probably higher than what was available in the DDR. I can't hear any pinging and if there was there would probably be a noticeable loss in power. I've been through that when tuning my turbocharged Fiats.

    What I can do is mount two of these modules on the board and make them adjustable instead of the board so I can adjust each cylinder independently like points.

    Here's a video I shot:

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 12, 2018 at 7:09 AM
  2. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    Good to see that you have got it working. 2 units would help the setting up. Its a shame that these units can't advance/retard the timing instead of using a fixed timing.

    Andy.
  3. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    Is the original advance unit still fitted below your new mounting plate?

    Andy.

Share This Page