1. In order to combat the SPAM challenges we have been facing, I have chosen for the registration of new forum members to be manually approved. If you are registering as a new member, please fill out your profile as much as your comfortable doing. By doing this it shows us that you are not a spammer and will ensure that you’re registered to the form quickly. Should you be denied by mistake, please reapply with a fully completed profile
  2. I have received a lot of messages asking about the future of the forums once my car sells. Well today it sold and will soon be on its way to its new home. With that said, for the forums, there is more information under 'Announcements" titled "Future of the Forums' you could also copy and paste this link: http://www.trabantforums.com/threads/future-of-the-forums-donations.1762/
  1. Gavin Johns

    Gavin Johns Newbie

    Hi all , I’m in search of a front hub puller or advice on where to look for one . I have seen one on German e bay , but the seller did not post to Australia .
  2. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

  3. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    German ebay is best get this type it is the best design https://www.ebay.de/itm/Trabant-Abz...839520?hash=item33f468c720:g:A2cAAOSwr8tbmnLc
    Next most german sellers will say they don't ship outside germany but if you ask nicely many actually will do it so ask in german if possible and be polite . Generally i have found the majority of sellers very helpful if you ask before bidding . Finally later trabants with 32mm hub nut don't actually need a puller so check nu size before you spend a lot of money
  4. Gavin Johns

    Gavin Johns Newbie

    Hi , thanks for your advice , how do I tell what year the little trabbi is ? I do know it has single circuit brakes , and the hub has the collared end . I will however measure just in case
  5. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    measure the hub nut 36mm needs the special puller 32mm doesn't roughly changed in 1984 but trabis are often a mix of parts so measure to be certain
  6. Gavin Johns

    Gavin Johns Newbie

    Thanks , will do so . I’m asuming even though there is a retaining screw on the brake drum , releasing this achieves nothing ? Also I’m currently using 25:1 fuel mix to be on the safe side re adequate oil to the crank . Is this over cautious ? What other issues are best to be aware of , I have noted the upper swivel / ball joints have movement , greasing aliviates this temporarily . Brakes , meh ..... , odd moments of not turning the fuel of resulting in EPA proportion fuel spills
    Thanks Gavin
  7. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    most people run 40;1 factory is 50;1 for 70-90 cars . Cheap mineral oil is fine . The kingpin bushes (swivel joints) are cheap but replacing them is a long job and you will neeed a reamer the uppet ones are fairly easy the lowers have a locking pin that is usually a total bastard to remove . They also need shimmed as well as reamed . John Short on here gave me an excellent how to guide
  8. Gavin Johns

    Gavin Johns Newbie

    Sounds good . I’m at the moment wanting it safe and enjoyable . What about trans oil ?
  9. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    ha ha gear oil is a can of worms i used ep80/90 as that is what factory recommended for some markets but some people put in hydraulic 68 oil or even ATF and will swear by it but i found ordinary ep 80 or 90 worked just fine
  10. Gavin Johns

    Gavin Johns Newbie

    Ahhh ok , where is the oil level ? I’m used to quirky , I’ve had my share of hillman Imps , assorted British afflictions and enjoyed various Eastern Europe oddities .... the trabbi being my late employers folly until his untimely death . It was given to various ppl and organisations whom gave it back . I’ve volenteered to be it’s custodian now and to my partners horror think I will keep it .
  11. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    if you look in manuals section of forum you can download an english manual that shows the oil level plug etc
  12. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    Many discussions regarding oil. Many use atf because of the freewheel. But people forget that modern automatic gearbox's use different metals compared to older vehicles. Modern addadives can attack certain metals. Also modern boxes have filters so the newer oils suspend the muck and sends it through the filter. Trabant box as no filter so needs the muck to drop to the bottom of the box.
    Some one here did a 2 year test with atf but the freewheel never worked in their car, so it can not be compared to a good working gearbox.
    I could also put modern engine oil into my 1958 Austin A35 and it will work. But older designed oils with less modern additives will give less wear and make the engine last longer.

    Andy.
  13. Gavin Johns

    Gavin Johns Newbie

    I can understand the newer oils being less compatible , you have the issue of 0% zinc in some oils which play havoc with the older engines . Possibly an older ATF 210 or 220 but I think I will go with an ep 90 or a 75w to preserve the freewheel unit
  14. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    you can buy the correct grade oil from farm supplies i went in one of our local ones to get a farm gate for a job and saw it on the shelf last week,ep oil oil is not good for the freewheel
  15. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    ep 80 was recommended by the east german engineers who designed the gearbox . I have seen the factory manuals peter frost posted recommending it
  16. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    I stand corrected
  17. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    I agree with you Kev, but oil disscusions on any forum is always divided. So its best that we just use what we feel is best for our vehicles.

    Andy.

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