1. In order to combat the SPAM challenges we have been facing, I have chosen for the registration of new forum members to be manually approved. If you are registering as a new member, please fill out your profile as much as your comfortable doing. By doing this it shows us that you are not a spammer and will ensure that you’re registered to the form quickly. Should you be denied by mistake, please reapply with a fully completed profile
  2. I have received a lot of messages asking about the future of the forums once my car sells. Well today it sold and will soon be on its way to its new home. With that said, for the forums, there is more information under 'Announcements" titled "Future of the Forums' you could also copy and paste this link: http://www.trabantforums.com/threads/future-of-the-forums-donations.1762/
  1. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    I made it 200 miles before something happened to the engine. Has a odd, squeaky, rattly buzzy sort of sound. Almost like a loose metal cover rattling. Makes the whole car vibrate bad at idle. Sounds better with high rpms.

    It is getting louder little by little.

    Seems the idle was getting more labored, as it was struggling.

    So I made it home, ran a little slower- but not by much. Me thinks it is coming from the lower case area(crank bearings ready to blow..)


    First thing I checked was to un hook the Alternator, and fan- sound still there!

    Took off the metal shrouds, still the same. Each time I started it , it got worse....

    Started to investigate further, popped off #2. The base nuts were loose, but not #1?

    The piston, bearing, pin looks fine.

    The crank spins normally by hand. I can't really feel any problems on the bottom of the rod end.


    Any ideas?

    I have another engine, that I may very well have to reseal, and use the top half from this one.
  2. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    it sounds like your bearings are breaking up they run in cages which break alowing the bearings to move about which then lets the crank move,sounds like an engine overhaul or at least a strip down to see whats happening,it only takes 15-20 minutes to remove the engine so its not to bad
  3. mati0921

    mati0921 Loyal Comrade

    This happened to me once, made all sorts of wierd noises, but ran fine most of the time. though at last it started losing power at random times, only to get it back two minutes later. :) I got replacement engine from trabantwelt. (which just got new headgaskets after 45.000 km) :)
    [​IMG]2014-07-21 17.40.44 by mati0921, on Flickr
  4. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    Matis bearing looks like my old one it ran fine but had a whizzing/rattling noise and wouldnt tickover because the crank was flapping about causing the crank seal to leak i got new bearings from germany and rebuilt the crank
  5. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Damn, thats a bad bearing!

    Mine doesn't look bad at all, everything seems fine at first glance. The rod ends, are perfect. I think I've narrowed it down to 1 of 2 things.

    The two middle crank bearings- , and or the loose sealing plates on the pins. They have a great deal of flop to them.

    Here is a poor quality video of the bearings, I think they sound bad. Have a bit of wiggle too. Now some bearings have play when new- are these like this?

    I find no slop in a radial direction though, no rollers missing. The engine is a 10/89

    What do you folks think?

  6. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    your bearings sound shot the springs on the disc valves can go weak allowing the discs to rattle,the crank is a press fit so can be rebuilt if you have access to a shop press
  7. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    I have a 12 ton press. The real question is, can I get it back together running straight.

    I checked out my other 601 engine today. The top end looks like it was made yesterday. Though the crank bearings let me know it was from 79'....:oops:

    So for the near future, this new to me trabi will be sitting.. No plans of fixing up a crank. I funneled cash into this little monster, seems she always wants more. ;)

    Id be better off getting a rebuilt crank, besides the horrific price of the thing.
  8. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    rebuilding the crank was fairly easy getting it true wasnt difficult theres a post on here about trueing it up keri put me on to it,you need a press,some steel plate,dti,copper hammer and some big thumps also a dial gauge the bearings are readily available in germany i think the set cost 120 euros

    Attached Files:

  9. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Yeah I had that Kinetic moped like Mati's engine do that to me. Had to disengage the rear and peddle this POS back home about 1 mile. It's geared like a BMX bike buy weights 100 lbs!

    What lead me to suspect the crankshaft bearings failed was I could grab the end of the crankshaft where the started clutch goes on and there was lots of play.
  10. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    The kinetic I had just sat in the corner of the shed. I took a really good look at it(to see what was needed), and simply decided no matter what- it would never be as good as a Tomos.

    Years ago I had a Tomos A35, just got it riding well(this was the dead of winter). Went fine for a week. Then on a back road it lost all power, and a huge cloud shot out he back.

    She blew a crank seal.. Serves me right for getting a engine from Ebay, and doing nothing to it.

    After fixing it, that little thing ran for many years.


    I'm in the process of selling our Merc. 240D. So, when it goes- I'll be getting a rebuilt crank for the 601. The bed of my press isn't wide enough to fit the crank.

    Also I'm sure my rod ends have a bit of wear too!.

    My older crank out of the other engine has a rubbing feel in the rod ends... So that one for sure is a no go.

    Id really like to make it more than 200 miles this next time! :rolleyes:
  11. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    Can you source equivalent bearings in the us?you don't need a particularly big press I made some spacers out of some 1 1/2" box section to lift the crank up off the bed it worked a treat and save me well over £1000 on a rebuilt crank
  12. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I hate to get off the subject but here is my A35 powered Tomos TX-50 a guy from work gave me.

    I thought this was the most recent photos showing the new rear fender but it's prior to that. I'll see if I can dig up the latest ones.

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2fYsT2B-RW5dkZueHcweUphS00

    I raised the handlebars with water pipe and longer bolts. I had a guy who fixes antique motorcycles make a longer new throttle cable. I replaced the seized brake cables with BELL Bicycle brake cables from Wal-Mart. I cleaned the carb and tank (packed full of rust). I tried patching the pinholes with fiberglass but I guess the ethanol ate it up! Eventually I just replaced the fuel tank with a good used one. Also had to install a new petcock valve. The handles are always missing for some reason and the original one leaked. That's why I hate petcock valves and did away with it on my Trabant.

    This thing used to smoke like hell but I learned that it was sucking automatic transmission fluid into the engine. The crankshaft seal on the transmission side are bad about going bad so I replaced it. It must have been really bad because White Shepherd stop leak wouldn't even swell the seal up.

    I replaced the rear shock with a universal stronger one so the muffler wouldn't rub the rear tire. And a new kickstand.

    I added a headlight (Blazer auxiliary light). I connected it to the yellow wire coming off the magneto but ended up having to install a universal voltage regulator because I kept blowing bulbs. They did not put a voltage regulator on this bike.

    I finally found a NOS rear fender from Treats. These things are made of hard plastic and are bad about breaking so there doesn't seem to be a supply of used ones.

    I removed the exhaust and plugged off one end and filled it full of Drano and let it sit overnight and flushed it with water. it looked like tar! And scraped out any carbon buildup from the exhaust port. The piston showed signs of scoring but the engine has something like 125 lbs of compression (cold).

    The chain would slip at times so I just removed a link from the chain.

    Other than that, I haven't really done much to the rest of the bike.

    OH, the Kinetic moped. I took some more measurements and I think that Chinese 110cc ATV engine will barely fit without having to cut the peddles off. That way it technically remains a moped instead of a motorcycle. But I don't need a motorcycle licence in TN as long as the engine is not above 110ccs.

    On the other hand, the laws regarding mopeds in TN are sketchy. They say motorized bicycles do not need to be registered but not mopeds and scooters do. My guess is because a bicycle doesn't have a VIN. I don't have a title to this moped and I doubt it was ever registered in any state to begin with. Because it was made in 1996, applying for a title might be difficult. I do have two mid 70s Suzuki GT 550 part bikes I could use the numbers off and buy a new VIN plate and stamp my own numbers and reigster it as a 75 Suzuki "50"!

    Do you still have that Kinetic? Even if it was POS, I'd be interested in it for parts or trade. The company is still in business but I think they have shifted production from making mopeds to auto parts for the Indian auto industry.
    Last edited: May 29, 2018
  13. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Yeah I can get the bearings via Trabant welt for a little over 100 Euros. The crank fully rebuilt would be about 450 Euro.

    For certain only one of my cranks can be easily rebuilt(the one I was driving on).

    It is possible to make up some spacers for the crank, though my press is really flimsy, and likes to wobble about.
  14. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    I had a 87 Targa, 96 Sprint, and a A55 Sprint ST.

    Bought almost all parts from Treatland.tv

    The A35 is a really great engine. Same for the A55(last ones in USA).

    I've learned the hard way about those crank seals. The first thing I would do to a moped, was to reseal the engine.

    90% of all running problems come down to air leaks around the seals.

    A important note, you should remove the factory oil pump setup. They are poorly made, and do not control the oil well. The reason for my great success with these, is a 50:1 pre mix in the tank.

    I like the Bi-turbo pipe too. Adds much more power. I can't remember if the A35 has cork clutch shoes(the A55 does). Anyway, I have relined numerous sets by hand, with a certain thickness of cork gasket material. Using gorilla glue epoxy.

    There is nothing like the shift of a new cork clutch! Also used Motul motorcyle 2 stroke gearbox oil. Much better shifting. Longer cork life


    As for that Kenetic- I sold it a few years ago, for the same I payed $40.00... I've never looked back on it.
  15. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Almost forgot. Virginia never titled Mopeds/ 49cc stuff until a few years ago. So to make it simple, there is a simple form to fill out, get notarized, and presto-- Title.

    No insurance is required- they only want you going 35 mph MAX. No roads are off limits except the interstate. No inspections either- but you need a helmet.
  16. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Seems our Capitalist Mercedes 240d sold today. So a rebuilt 601 crank is on the way. Near half the price of the car too....

    I made it as far as the outer bearings coming off my crank(on the flywheel one, it almost fell off the shaft). Me thinks it had been pressed on before, and wore down the crank surface(like that wheel hub!).


    My press is so wobbley, there is no way to accuratly press something together(other than wheel bearings). Plus a custom bed, and spacer would be needed.

    Maybe if I'm unlucky enough to need to do this again one day, I'll give it a shot.

    Anyway so the waiting commences.... T minus 2 -3 weeks from now.
  17. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    My Kinetic doesn't have cork starter shoes. But I know what your talking about. I think I read that my Tomos has cork clutch shoes?

    After I replaced the crankshaft bearings and seals, I discovered the engine would only run at WOT for a second or two. Too much air.

    I discovered that crankcase to cylinder gasket they sent me which looks like it was made from a Pepsi can leaked gasoline like crazy. So I knew it was sucking air in.

    I replaced this gasket with one I made from paper sprayed with that Permatex copper coat stuff. Got rid of the fuel leak but still won't start. Not even with ether.

    I may have jarred something loose in the carburetor when I removed the engine. But I still can't understand why the engine won't run on ether if it has compression and spark. Timing? But I don't think it's possible to get the timing out of whack on these engines.

    I decided I was going to replace the piston rings while I had the engine apart. Only to break them. The bore diameter is a bit oblong. Normal I guess.

    So I ordered an over sized set only to discover one ring is different from the other . So I had to order two sets to get the same type of rings. The cylinder wall is scared (most likely from where the bearing disintegrated), I was going to have to find someone to hone the cylinder out.

    Anyway, that's as far as I got and decided to cut my losses. I hate to give up on something but I think my best bet is to replace this engine with the 110cc four stroke. I haven't removed it or done a compression test on it as of yet. If it's got good compression, I'm going to use it.

    The 110cc engine on my daughter's ATV really moves on compared to my Tomos TX-50. It will make it up hills that Kinetic would stall out on 50 feet into the incline.
  18. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Yeah I know exactly what gasket your speaking of. So yes you can get the timing WAY out of wack on a Tomos engine. You have electronic ignition(I hope!). It is adjusted, a lot like a trabi.

    Here is a link to the A35 manual :
    https://vintagemopeds.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/tomos-a35-engine-service-manual.pdf

    A fun fact is, they had a A3, A35, A55 here in the USA.

    If you don't have a piston stop, a easy trick is to put a thin rope down the plug hole. Then gently turn it till it binds up, then remove crank nuts.

    Did you put the piston upside down? Did our reed valve get stuck, and or leak/break apart?

    Our trabbis use the antique rotary valve method very dependable but not that efficient. Mr Tomos has itty bitty metal plates( like thin feeler gauges that seal shut). They take quite a beating!).

    Maybe the carb is clogged. Did you flip the carb slide around wrong?(can slide in 2 diff. ways). Only one right....

    Think I've rebuilt 4-5 A35 engines, 1 A55 too( exact same from case down). I still have the tools to get everything apart.

    I recommend fixing the engine before anything else.

    The timing stuff is behind the oil pump, and flywheel. I never had a Tomos with a bad ignition...

    Other than the seals, and clutches exploding. The most common failure is the bearings in the gears- that causes chipped teeth.
    They are really easy change out. Getting to be real hard to find good used gears now.... I have a set that is chipped, but not too bad. Pickens are slim.....

    If you want, you can ship the whole engine to me, I'll figure out whats wrong( easy to ship!). Cover the cost of shipping both ways, and I'll do it for free....

    I really like moped stuff!

    On your TX-50, the engine is part of the frame, so if you swap it - keep that in mind.

    Lastly, if you want to get more life out of your brake shoes, simply rotate the shoes in the drum front to back-etc). One always wears MUCH more than the others...
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2018
  19. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    The moped with the engine troubles is the Kinetic TFR. That's the one I was planning on installing the 110cc engine on.

    I wonder if I could get $75 from this engine? The bottom end has been rebuilt. It just needs the cylinder honed and new rings installed.

    Looks like Photobucket did away with their multiple pop up ads. Last time I was on there, they would bombard you with about 10 pop up ads.

    I got photos of the engine damage as well.

    http://s222.photobucket.com/user/turbofiat/library/Kinetic moped?sort=2&page=1

    Here's some pics of the Tomos with the proper rear fender:

    http://s222.photobucket.com/user/turbofiat/library/Tomos TX50?sort=6&page=1

    The Tomos TX-50 is fine. If anything I need to remove the cylinder head and de-carbonize it and the piston crown. And resurface the head on my 8X10 picture frame glass and see if I can get by without running a head gasket to bump up the compression.

    They make 70cc "big bore" kits but they are kind of pricey. I don't know if I want to put that kind of money into it.

    The only issue I have with the Tomos is with the fuel line. For some reason when I turn the petcock valve on, fuel will fill the line but not all the way up to the petcock valve. There is a 1 to 2 inch void. If I loosen the screw on the inlet port on the carburetor, I can bleed off the air bubbles. The problem is the bike doesn't run right or idle properly. Once I bleed the air off, it runs fine.

    I did have a fuel filter between the petcock valve and the carburetor but I think it was redundant. Behind the inlet port is a small screen so I suppose this acts as the fuel filter. So I removed the in-line fuel filter to see if this had any effect but it didn't.

    The cap is not the problem either. If I remove the cap it does not get rid of the air bubbles.

    I know this is NOT the way to fix this but here is what I came up with. I installed a 3 port tee and ran another hose to where it's above the top of the tank I could drill a hole in the filler neck just below the cap and press a roll pin through the hole and hook the hose to that. That should equalize the pressure in the lines.

    That way there wouldn't be any chance of fuel sloshing out of the bleed hose.

    IMG_20180601_130425488.jpg IMG_20180601_130432494.jpg
  20. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Thats a great idea, with the fuel vent tube!

    Could it be that the fuel petcock sucks air from the tank(the pickup tube in the tank is too long? Maybe on reserve, it wouldn't do this? Had many mopeds over the years, and never had this happen...

    If you put that kinetic together, and get it running- then I'm sure somebody would love to have it.

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