1. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    I was getting ready to do the left rear brakes today, and noticed the wheel has a shocking amount of play ( usually means bearings- or not tight enough).

    Anyway, I just happened to have 1 set of wheel bearings new. So I took the swing arm off...

    Now I have a few questions:

    I gently tapped the shaft out the rear of the hole, the bearing came with it. Also a piece of pipe spacer(this is a later model car), I thought there should be a spring too. Maybe I'm wrong about this.

    Should it have been this easy? You see why I ask in a second...:eek:

    After removing the snap ring I knocked out the other bearing, was much harder-but still did it with a socket and hammer.

    I pressed it off, and on- new bearing on the shaft.

    Put it all back together and,........... IT STILL WOBBLES EXACTLY THE SAME!!!!:confused:

    Like a D*&K in a shirt sleeve.

    Now what's wrong here? Is it the wheel hub it self, the axle shaft, or the housing worn out...

    Either way this means the parts trabbi gets another wheel taken off.

    One week to go till my 300 mile round trip run to the Carlisle PA Import Auto Show.

    Cuttin it close huh? :D
    Last edited: May 11, 2018
  2. mati0921

    mati0921 Loyal Comrade

    bearings should be tight in the swingarm. if not, a new or used one is way to go. :)
  3. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Thats the thing, the bearings are new...
  4. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Alright, took a look at it.

    For those of you playing the home game, the answer is C the housing is worn out. o_O

    Never had a vehicle that this was worn out on.

    My guess is years ago a bearing locked up, and spun on the outer surface.

    I can see where someone tried to dimple with a punch, the inside mating area.

    Either way, the axle housing from the parts trabi saved the day.

    Now all of the wheels are tight, with no wobble!

    Three wheels have all new bearings, the RR has had it replaced(not by me) , looked and felt fine-so I left it alone.. This will probably bite me later on! :D

    Now off to bleed the new brake system.
  5. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    What if you have the housing "bored" like a cylinder and use a bearing with a slightly larger OD but the same ID as the correct bearing? The numbers on the bearing represent the ID and OD and thickness.

    I guess you have read this before but I used sealed SKF bearings on the front (same bearings used on the rears on all models) which eliminated all those shims and washers that goes with it which I think are related to holding the separate grease seals in place so these pieces are now obsolete.

    Getting a machine shop to do it in a timely manner is the problem. Around here machine shops are horrible at turn around times. I took this one shop a Volvo T3 turbo I just so happened to buy at the Carlisle spring show for $50 and asked them to machine down the exhaust flanges so it fit the exhaust manifold and down pipe flanges on my system. The Volvo T3 doesn't use gaskets but my system does. He says, "Might be 6 weeks before I can get to it because I'm backed up"... He eventually got it done but it was 6 weeks.

    I'd like to come back to Carlisle one of these days. I went from 2002 to about 2006 and every year it rained and I froze my ass off. I did not think it being that cold in May in Pennsylvania. It's almost 90 degrees today. Only one year did I attend it was 80 degrees and no rain.
  6. mati0921

    mati0921 Loyal Comrade

    Dont know what the next size bearing is, but there is not much material to machine from before it gets thin. a good used one is way to go, or have it welded back up and rebored, but that is probably expensive. :)
  7. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Since mine is a CV axle car, it already has sealed bearings in the front(fit a VW rabbit from late 1970's). If time would have allowed it, the rears would be sealed as well. Put in new seals though,

    Yeah it has rained several years in a row now for that show... I've never been, what ever screwy car I had at the time- wasn't ready.

    I would go with a larger od bearing first( after measuring well. It would be a royal pain to set up the whole swing axle, to bore it out. Looks like that backing plate will come off with the bolts/ rivets knocked out. Don't know about the hub.

    Either way I needed a fix ASAP...

    Thankfully, I have that crap parts car. The housing is perfect.

    Put almost 200 miles on the car in two days so far.
  8. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    I'm back again with now the other side going wobbly. Made it 3000km before I noticed it( was the only bearings I didn't replace!).

    Yet again the hub is worn out, now not any where near as bad as the one in the posts above, but a close second.

    So I did what our comrades in the East would have done. Take a punch, and whack numerous divits in the hub bores, and on the stub axle surfaces.

    Somebody did this before, and used a "Waaffer Thin" piece of shim stock on the od of the bearing.

    There is really no metal in the hub to machine out. The next size od larger bearing is 72mm... Way to big. The best way would be to machine a slightly larger od , and much smaller Id adapter. Maybe one set screw to keep it in place. Then use the equivalent bearing.

    I did just get a metal lathe a few weeks ago. When I feel confident enough, I'll try to fix my super worn out hub from my parts car. If I'm successful, you'll know about it....

    Already junk, so I can only make it better! ;)
  9. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

  10. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I may have mentioned this before but instead of machining the hub out (since there is not enough metal), couldn't you just use the next size up bearing OD? Unless the hub is completely crapped out and the wall is paper thin. If that's the case, I would avoid using it altogether.

    I found the front wheel bearings from a local bearing supply and the dust seals. I just copied the numbers off the bearings and seals. The bearings were a bit more pricey at $20 a pop but they are made by SKF in the US. If I had business account, they probably would have sold them to me at half the price!

    Except instead of using the opened sealed bearings, I used bearings with the seals already pressed it. That eliminates all that rusted hardware that went with the original bearings that holds the "loose" seals in place. I figured if typical front wheel drive wheel bearings used seals bearings, then why not go with that?

    Plus not having to pay DHL shipping on some questionable $6.00 bearings equaled out. Like that so called outer hinge joint boot that has a 90 mm ID that is supposed to stretch over a 100 mm hub collar, I ended up having to order from an EMPI dealer here in the US.

    So if the rear calls for a 6206 C2 bearing, you could use a 6207 C2. I think the C2 denotes that it's an open bearing. I believe that is correct but you would need to confirm this with a bearing supply store and measure the ID of the bore.

  11. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    It's a good idea, but the next size larger od bearing is 72mm, the original is 62mm...

    Just way to big. The C2 references the fitting/ and allowed play. I went with sealed ones as well.
  12. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I would have thought you could buy a bearing in just about any size. I didn't know there was that much of a step between the OD of bearings.
  13. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Yeah, but it would be way to easy for a bigger bearing.

    Either way, it is gently wobbling again... So my dimpling made it tight- for about 3 trips around the yard....

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