1. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    Interesting. Of course, my system is a 6 volt one, so probably nothing useful would work plugged into that I imagine. Maybe I will tell people that is the onboard diagnostics (OBD2) port for the connection to the computer :D
  2. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    USB is 5 volts so most USB chargers will work on a 6 volt car not guaranteed but most will
  3. trabant601

    trabant601 Loyal Comrade

  4. trabant601

    trabant601 Loyal Comrade

    I have started a few that have been static for that long or longer. Good advice above...
  5. Caleb

    Caleb Loyal Comrade

    you can still find the work light accessory that uses that plug on sites like ebay.de. Folks still have them laying around and sell them. They work with the 6v version.
  6. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    That light would be cool to have, just to say you had it if nothing else. :)
  7. Caleb

    Caleb Loyal Comrade

    Yeah they are pretty cool. There are a couple different versions out there but they all have that plug to plug in under the dash.
  8. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Yes. Actually allot of people (such as Fords built before 1968) convert their cars over to dual master cylinders. I think 1968 was the first year dual circuit brakes were required in the US. My 68 Fairlane has dual circuit brakes.

    Reason being is if the say one of the rear master cylinders blows, the front brakes will still stop the car. The pedal will still go to the floor and the braking is reduced but the car still stops. With the one circuit systems, if any wheel cylinder blows, the whole braking system fails.

    I'm not sure about the single circuits systems but there should be a tee somewhere in the system. One line going to the rear and two going to each front wheels. You could always run new lines from each from wheel to a tee then to the master cylinder reroute the line going to the rear to one of the other ports.

    Although I do not stick to originality on any of my cars, but from what I've read there are two exceptions when it comes to these cars show judges that grade on originality. One being seat belts and the other being dual circuit brakes. I'm not sure about 3rd brake lights. Basically anything regarding safety. In other words the judges won't take off any points for the cars being altered in those two regards.

    Don't feel too bad about ordering parts. I ordered the wrong axle for mine trying to use Google translate. I now know what "Recht" means!
    I emailed them to see if I could send it back. Of course no response...

    The four wheel drum brake setup on the Trabant is actually a pretty good design. It is a bit complicated due to the front components not being symmetrical but I've never experienced brake fade coming off steep hills and the car stops straight. The drums have cooling slots machined into them.

    Remember you are not supposed to use the engine as a brake going down hills! That's what the 4th gear freewheel device is for. I usually just de-clutch in 3rd when going down hills. That way if the engine has yet to warm up and wants to stall when I get to the bottom, I just let out on the clutch so the engine restarts itself.

    If I don't pull my 68 Ford into L2 going down steep hills, the front drum brakes will overheat! And the self adjusters that Ford used are not worth crap. Either that or they are not working correctly. So I hang onto the steering wheel tight when braking hard, otherwise the car won't stop straight. And don't hit water puddles!
  9. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    Does anyone have a list of which fuses protect which devices? My horn and wipers currently do not work. I am not sure those issues are fuse related (it doesn’t look like any fuses are bad) but I will probably replace them all regardless just to have new ones in there. In any event, it would be helpful for future reference what is on each fuse. And if those two things happened to be on the same fuse maybe a fuse replacement would get them both going easily.

    I assume the fuses are all 8 amp fuses?
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2019
  10. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade


    I have been away for a while and missed your reply. Thanks for the information on the brakes. I think ultimately it won't be a huge problem routing the brake lines to separate them, though it might require a bit of custom bending and flaring which has not been my strong suit in the past, but mistakes are not real expensive with that. The part I am most concerned about is the connection through the firewall back to the pedal. I am hoping that the way it attaches and adjusts there is very similar since I do not really want to re-engineer the brake pedal interface since that is kind of important. :) I ordered every single brake part there is to replace, including new slotted drums (the old ones do not appear to have those slots) so I am hoping to get reasonable performance from the brakes once I am done with that replacement project. I have seen that with the exception of fourth gear (assuming that the freewheel is working for that) that I do not want to coast with the engine spinning at high revolutions. Hills where I live are not really a problem since with few exceptions, the only hills are interstate overpasses.

    I generally like to keep my cars original as much as possible since I just like having them the way they came from the factory (usually, quirks and all), but it seems for safety this would be a very wise upgrade. I did not realize that show judges were OK with those types of safety upgrades but it sure makes sense. That said, I don't know how many juried car shows I will enter my Trabant in. I have two other "play" cars: a 1967 Buick Wildcat convertible that has a dual master cylinder setup from the factory (drum brakes fade quite a bit on that car but at least it has separate circuits), but my '66 Olds Toronado only has a single. I have not tackled converting that over to a dual setup, but if/when I have to do a major overhaul of the brakes, I will definitely investigate that.
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2019
  11. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

  12. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    Thanks for the reference on the fuse layout. Based on that, the fuses are probably not the issue, and I will indeed probably need to start tracking down possible electrical faults with the multimeter. I don't plan on driving in the rain much, and the horn is not vital so long as I don't get stopped for an inspection but, of course, I would like for both of them to work. I need to get the car running and roadworthy before I tackle those items I suppose.
  13. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    Do any of you know if the wired attached where the arrow is pointing is a ground that is needed for the coils under the bracket, or what its purpose is?

    The reason I am asking is I bought new coils which are larger and are painted black, rather than being plain metal. If that wire serves as a ground for the coils, I am concerned that the relatively thick paint would interfere with the ground connection to the bracket. Also, the new coils are somewhat larger in diameter than the ones that are in the car currently, so I am going to have to figure out how to rig that bracket to hold them since the screw that holds that top bracket down will not even be close to reaching with the new coils in place.

    Attached Files:

  14. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Yeah the wire under Herr bolt is a ground for the ignition. It grounds through the bolt, and or coils. You could always scrap a little paint off, if it really worries you. Hopefully you have the right replacement coils. Almost all coils use the about the same size can.

    Why not get a longer bolt?
  15. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    The coils are 6v coils from trabantwelt.de and is listed as having an approx. 55 mm diameter, and I assume are compatible with my car other than being larger than the originals. I am not sure how to determine if they are not correct if they are not:


    They also offer this coil, which looks a bit more like the one in the car but is not exactly the same as the originals (for instance mine currently have a thread on the end of the coil and the plug wires have a threaded fitting to attach them with, neither of which is present in the new ones). And the new plug wires have a different end of the wire (a metal sleeve) that does not even fit into the hole at the end of the old coils so I would have to snip that sleeve off to use the new wires with the old coils. I am not sure what the diameter is of the one below, but it looks also bigger than mine based on the photo, but not sure if they are 55 mm or not:


    I am trying to find a bolt that will fit, but the thread pitch must be metric rather than SAE and I am having trouble so far finding a bolt long enough with the matching pitch, but I will find something to make it work.

    There are no extra connectors on the new coils beyond the two that connect to the supply wires, so if they require grounding via contact with the external housing then I assume that the paint does not prohibit that. I guess once I get them in, I can use my meter to test for gound from the exterior shell of the coils and see if that is the case.
  16. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I might be wrong but I'm thinking that wire grounds the passenger side headlight , park and turn signal lights. German and French cars seem to use brown wires for ground where everybody else uses black.

    That should be an 8X1.25mm bolt. Just take it to advance Auto and get one a bit longer.
    As long as the threads on the car and bolt are clean the paint shouldn't interfere with the ground.

    I can't say for sure but you could probably use 6V coils from a Ford Tractor if you wanted to.
  17. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    Quick update: After putting in new coils and plug wires, a new fuel line and a new fuel petcock valve, I was able to get the car to start briefly. It would start and run for about 10 seconds or so on ether sprayed into the metal elbow on the front, but will not continue running at all once that is burned off, and regardless of choke position. I tried running with just one spark plug wire attached at a time, and the car started using each cylinder by itself, with it running a bit better on one than the other. But, my assumption is that it is getting sufficient spark in both cylinders to run, so I believe the electrics are in reasonable shape for now. Since I have nobody to crank the car for me to look for spark at the plug, I figured this was the next best thing.

    Anyway, at this point, it seems either I am not getting enough fuel delivered to the carburetor or the carburetor has some sort of issue itself. I plan to disconnect the fuel line from the carb and turn the fuel on to make sure it is getting down there, but unless the valve is bad or I have a kink somewhere in the line that I had not noticed, I think that should be OK. If that is, then I need to do some looking on the site for carb troubleshooting advice. I am not real familiar with carburetors, so I am hoping there is nothing major wrong, but at least I know it does run if it gets fuel it can burn.
  18. trondd

    trondd Loyal Comrade

    Put the ether away. You're running the engine without oil.

    Is there fuel in the carb fuel bowl? Probably just need to take the carb off, open it up and soak it with carb cleaner. I use a piece of stranded wire to ream the gunk out of the jets. It's usually the jets that are my problem.

    This is an easy carb to learn on, it's very simple and has only 2 things to adjust.

    And if I recall, the carb you have is the one in the translated service manual.
  19. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    If you had a spray bottle, you could spritz in some 33:1 fuel. WAY better than dry ether.. When looking at Herr Float, make certain it is air tight. Sit it in a cup of water, with a small weight on it.

    After a while, if it still floats, and has no liquid inside- your good.

    Also, check that fuel cap, it needs to be vented.
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2019
  20. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Your float valve is clogged from fuel that has evaporated from sitting. Which is always the case with gravity feed systems. I've cleaned a many carbs on lawnmowers because if this.

    If you don't feel comfortable tearing into the carb, connect some hose to the carb and useca small funnel and pour fuel injection cleaner into it. I tried this on a riding mower and it worked.

    The early style carbs are not much different design that's on a riding mower. No accelerator pump. Other than the starter valve instead of a choke.

    Anybody who can work on a lawnmower carb can clean it. If you don't feel comfortable tearing into it.

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