1. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    Thanks for the advice. I did confirm this morning that gravity is indeed working well here and when the hose is disconnected from the carb end fuel flows out freely. I am a bit apprehensive about going too far into the carb but maybe I will give it a shot (you have to learn some time).

    If I can’t get things going, a co-worker’s husband is a small engine repair guy and I assume he can deal with cleaning the carb up.

    By the way, I have been adding oil into the cylinders for at least a bit of lubricant when trying the ether, but it is clear that there is no fuel making it through the carb so the starting fluid is not really needed any more since I have confirmed that it is a fuel and not a spark issue.
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2019
  2. trondd

    trondd Loyal Comrade

    Which carb do you have? I can't find if you mentioned it yet.

    It's probably 4 screws to open the bowl and see if there is fuel in there. The only thing you might need to be afraid of is mixing up jets. Just take them out one at a time then. Just get in there. You can't make it worse. :)
  3. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I can fix it for you if you need help. As long as the float is good and nobody has bottomed out the idle mixter screw (still has a taper on it) about the only thing needed is a new O ring to go under the idle mixture screw and a float bowel and the starter valve gaskets which can easily be cut from gasket material.

    The only carb I am intimidated by are Mikunis ( like on ATVs ) which have too many internal parts and passages.
  4. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I think he has the early style.
  5. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    My carb looks very much like that in the translated manual. I am not sure if there is a marking somewhere on the carb itself that confirms what the model is, but most everything else on this car is the older version of things it seems when there is more than one so that would fit with that trend.
  6. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    Yep, it is not working at present, so I can't really make it work less. I think I just need to dive in there as you suggest. I think I am just a few steps from getting the car running, then it is very likely on to the brakes, which will be a whole new adventure.
  7. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    Thanks for the offer. I am going to do a bit of investigation and see what I can find. It is my understanding that the car was running fine when my Dad got it, and when he last had it running, so it is very likely that something is just gummed up and preventing the fuel from flowing. It can't be that hard to fix if that is the case it seems.
  8. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    The tag on the carb says TYP 28HB2-7. I am guessing that based on the 69 stamped on that plate that the carb is original to the vehicle.

    There are three easily accessible bolts on top of the float chamber but it feels like there is also be a screw on the backside that I can’t see without removing other parts. I don’t see in the manual a drawing of that part of the chamber, so I am wondering if that is just holding down the cap? I don’t want to start turning it if it is some sort of adjustment screw though I doubt it is.

    Update: I found an exploded drawing of the carb and it appears it is only the three bolts that hold that cover down. I am not sure what the slotted screw is for on the back side of the cover since it does not appear to be in that drawing. And the gasket set trabantwelt.de sells for that carb model just shows the three bolt holes in it, so that screw should not interfere with me popping the cover off the float. If anyone has suggestions on the best way to separate the cover from the carb body, I would appreciate if you would share that. I assume I want to avoid prying with anything like a flat blade screwdriver since that could result in "dinging" up the metal and making it harder to seal with a gasket when I put it back together. Would it make sense to use a razor blade and try sliding it in to loosen the gasket, or is some other method recommended?

    I also took a picture with my phone of the screw for reference, which you can’t see from the front of the carb. The picture shows the screw in relation to the passenger side rear bolt hole.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 13, 2019
  9. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    I removed the float chamber cover today and it was bone dry in there and a bit gunky. The needle valve was stuck closed, and the brass float at least appeared to be in OK shape. I used a bunch of carb cleaner and was able to free things up ok. After putting things back together I cranked the starter and it started on the second try. The generator light went off so apparently the generator is working so good news on two fronts.

    The bad news is the car was running a bit rough, so I gave it some choke even though it’s warm here and just about stalled it. The reason for that was apparent when I went back up front to see fuel running out of the front of the carb. ☹️ So, maybe I got the float in wrong somehow when I put it back together, or that needle valve is not sealing now that it is freed up. It definitely moved freely but maybe won’t seal now.

    So, one step forward, one step back as it seems is the case for me each time I work on the car. But it does run so that is very good news.

    Not sure if this link to a short video will work or not but worth a shot: https://photos.app.goo.gl/53vQ6TM7K4KpjBHEA
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2019
  10. trondd

    trondd Loyal Comrade

    Nice. Congrats. I missed your previous post. Glad you got things figured out.

    Could be gunk in the needle valve, or a sunken float, or the level isn't set right. Rebuild kit will have a needle and seat and a a new float.

    Rough running could be clogged jets. Timing and points should be suspect, as well.
  11. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    I’m not sure I can conclude much about the way it is running given how much extra fuel was being provided. I was hoping not to need to pull the carb off, if for no other reason than I don’t have a gasket for it so I’d bed to make my own or order from Germany. I may need to pull it and see what else is not right in there. I am going to mess one more time with the float chamber and valve to see if I missed anything obvious. At least it started, so I’m happy with that for now.
  12. trondd

    trondd Loyal Comrade

    You're going to have to take it off and rebuild it. But in the meantime, with some creative screwdriver work, you can get at all the jets from the outside to remove and clean them. And blow some cleaner and air through the passages.

    It's a lot easier with the carb off, though. :) I'd take my chances with the gasket. But you'd also find out how hard it is to get to the nuts holding the carb on.
  13. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I usually make my own gaskets. Very seldom do I buy a gasket unless it's something special. I have made exhaust gaskets before but they are rather hard to cut.

    Just get a roll of that paper/composite stuff from Advance or AutoZone and use the old one as a tracing. If the gasket is completely trashed, you can smear some grease on the mating surface of one piece (like the float bowel and starter valve lid) and press it onto the gasket material and trace around the grease stain with a pencil then wipe off the grease and cut it with some scissors. No need to use gasket sealer on the material. But applying some grease usual helps it from sticking next time you have to remove it.

    As far as the bolt holes is concerned, I have a hole punch kit so I usually make my own gaskets. You can use bullet shell casings like from a 22 caliber. Or just careful cut the holes out using a utility knife.
  14. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    I probably will end up at least for now making new gaskets as needed.

    And based on where those nuts are right behind the carb, it looks like a real PITA to get to them. Any idea what size they are so I can at least maybe start with the correct size wrench?
  15. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I believe they are 10 mm.
  16. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    Thanks. I will start with a 10 mm and see if that works.
  17. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    I actually made a bit of progress. I read on some other thread here that sometimes if there is no fuel in the float chamber where it is put together that the float somehow gets hung up and doesn’t work properly. So, I tried taking the float cover off again, made sure there was plenty of fuel in there, put it back together, and tried starting it. The engine started and did not leak any fuel out the air intake as it did before. The car was running rough and was smoking a good bit, but there was a fair amount of extra oil I put in the engine to start with to make sure it had lubricant in it when I was preparing to start it, and I also have a 33 to 1 mix in the tank at the moment. I’m sure things still need to be tweaked or adjusted, but it is at least running.

    I also tried blocking the carb intake with my hand while running and it stalled the engine as I understand it should, so it seems for the time being I have no major intake side air leaks which is good. I also briefly tried first gear and reverse and in both cases they seemed to be working. I have things apart still including the grille hanging off the front so I did not actually try driving it at all. But, it seems the transmission is working to at least a certain extent.
  18. trondd

    trondd Loyal Comrade

    Yeah, on mine, if the needle valve is allowed to fall all the way down, the float can't push it back up. But it can't get into that situation while the float is in the bowl. The float hits the wall first.

    Sounds like things are going good. Might not need much work at all.
  19. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    You've made a good bit of progress, now comes the exciting bit.... :D

    After the smoke clears up, if it still runs screwy- then you will need to clean, and adjust the points. Would be a very good idea to replace those condensers too. Unless you are going with that electronic ignition conversion- then please disregard this

    Before running it too much, check that the trans has oil in it(look in owners manual).

    When mine first got back on the road, it rolled smoke for 2 miles- like a forest fire! Here is my first start(didn't run long enough for the smoke).

  20. Buckeye601

    Buckeye601 Loyal Comrade

    I am considering the electronic ignition but have not made a move to purchase it yet. In the long run, that seems like the best choice, even though I have seen some people having trouble with it. I have to pull the wheels to get the new $9 tires I bought mounted, so I will take a peek at the points when I do that for the passenger side. As an experiment, I pulled the plug wire from each cylinder one at a time and briefly tried starting the engine to verify each was actually firing. I was able to get the car started on one of the cylinders but not the other but it did get close to starting. I don't know if that is a great test but seems to indicate that one cylinder is perhaps working a bit better than the other. The spark plug gap is correct on both, and both have new coils and wires so it could be distributor-related.

    I will definitely check the tranny fluid level and adjust as needed before doing too much with the car - thanks for the reminder as it is easy to get carried away and forget things that need to be checked. In any event, I think the brakes are shot anyway so I can't really go much farther than down the driveway and back at this point, which is maybe 100 yards or so one way.

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