1. Justin

    Justin Founder Moderator

    I was finally able to get some work done on the Mini Cooper I have. Over the past couple months I ordered most of the parts that were missing on it and now got to the point that I was able to get the motor pulled.

    Next I'll start to disassemble the peripherals and clean it up, then power wash, paint and start to get it back together!

    Here are some pics.

  2. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Hey Justin, I had my Photobucket page pulled up at the same time and got to see more pics of your car. Being the the observant person I am I noticed a couple of odd things:

    What's up with the Hungarian number plates? Is that the country it came from?

    But my most bearing question is I noticed the brake booster and master cylinder are on the passenger side yet the car is left hand drive? WTF?!?

    In the U.K. a common practice I was told was to keep the LHD steering rack and move everything else then run a chain from one side to another one of the firewall to get the steering column to line up with the input shaft on the steering rack or steering box.

    This is a common practice in Boliva where they convert RHD vehicles to LHD. I was watching some TV program where they import a lot of 4X4s from Japan and do some shoddy ass conversions like the ones below.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I have no idea why they don't just import LHD vehicles from some other country instead of Japan.

    The other question is, a RHD vehicle left alone would be ideal to drive on Bolivia's "death road", The Yugus highway. So that way you could see how close to the edge you are.


    I know on the far eastern side of Russia, (like the city of Vladivostok) they import a lot of used vehicles from Japan by boat because it's cheaper than transporting vehicles several thousand miles by railroad from mainland Russia. But they don't bother with converting them to LHD.
  3. Justin

    Justin Founder Moderator

    The Hungarian plates is an easy answer, I had to have the car on the street for a couple months and in my neighborhood you can't leave an un-tagged car parked on the street. Since I had a spare Hungarian license plate I just threw it on the car.

    I did not put 2 and 2 together on the brake booster until you pointed it out. I have no idea how it really functions, guess some studying will be in order.

    JASONCHAD Trabi Meister Forum Donor

    Great pics. The car looks like it is fantastic condition!
  5. Justin

    Justin Founder Moderator

    Thanks, body and interior are pretty nice, although the body does have some placed I'd like to fix, we'll see how it goes mechanically
  6. notabmw1

    notabmw1 Smoking Along

    Justin, whats going on? The way the brake booster works it there is a rod underneath the dash that goes from the brake pedal across to the clevis pin/arm of the brake booster. Looks like you got a late 80's/pre 91 model of a Mini. Good luck with your project, I will be starting on mine again in a few weeks, parts are coming in!
  7. Justin

    Justin Founder Moderator

    Good call on that, the original German title says it's a '91 and when I do the VIN check it confirms the same. I figured the booster must operate the way you described, just hadn't given thought to it being on the opposite side until James (@turbofiat124) pointed it out.

    Looks like I've going to need some new boots for it, new motor mounts, possibly the carb gone through and rebuilt and probably the distributor rebuilt. Other than that, should go back in pretty easily.
  8. notabmw1

    notabmw1 Smoking Along

    I don't know why I don't receive notifications on any of the threads I am on (I have checked the box), anyway I have worked on the brake system before and replaced it with a older setup when I did a engine swap for space. That's why I know how it works. As far as carb rebuilt, and distributor, give me a ring, I know the best/cheapest place for both. Good luck! I was working on mine yesterday. Can't wait till spring, should have Mini and Trabant as well pretty far along, and the Morris!
  9. Justin

    Justin Founder Moderator

    For the dizzy I was thinking about using Jeff at Advance Distributors, do you know someone better?
  10. notabmw1

    notabmw1 Smoking Along

    I have used them, lately been using Accuspark, the full kit, dist, coil, wires, etc. Usually shipped it was under $160 or so. Good luck!
  11. Justin

    Justin Founder Moderator

    Is that for a new dizzy or rebuilding the one I have? That seems like a great deal and if you trust the parts I'm good with that.

    Who are you using for the carb?
  12. notabmw1

    notabmw1 Smoking Along

  13. Justin

    Justin Founder Moderator

    I actually don't have a clue of exactly what I need. I will take a picture and perhaps you could help me to identify it.

    Who do you use regarding the carb? I don't know if mine needs it or not, but I would rather be safe than sorry.

    I know the car has been sitting for years. Carb seems to be free of any gas or being gummed up inside, but I feel confident that my pulling the carb off is the first time it's ever been off the motor and it is a 91.
  14. Justin

    Justin Founder Moderator

    notabmw1 , as long as the motor is out, I was planning on cleaning it up, de-greasing it and painting it. While it's out are there any seals, gaskets, etc that I should replace? Might as well do some maintenance while I'm in there.

    Any other tips/advice would be great too!
  15. notabmw1

    notabmw1 Smoking Along

    I still use Mike Guido at Minisport to get a rebuilt carb, really need to start doing them, but he does such a nice job, and usually I am converting from a SU carb to a Hif44 or Hif38 and I don't have to source them. But they are getting harder for him to source this last year to prices have gone up a little bit. Not saying you can just buy the rebuild kit and put yours in a ultrasonic cleaner, etc. As far as the engine I usually pull the head off and inspect the bores, fit a new copper head gasket, put a new water pump and gasket on. Cause it is a lot easier to do it while it is out and its cheap insurance, new water pump is $25, so why not. Now these cars usually leak on the gearbox seals. If yours wasn't then I wouldn't replace it, but last motor I popped in and didn't replace those and the damn thing leaked pretty bad and I was kicking myself in the ass. The shifter seal tends to leak as well, they have a new kit for that that works fairly well. Anyway, got lots of snow here right now, waiting for my new tires and brake conversion to come in. Might work on it next week or so.
    Justin likes this.
  16. Justin

    Justin Founder Moderator

    Awesome, thank you. The water pump is a brilliant idea and I don't know the condition of my gearbox seals so I may just go ahead and do it while my motor is out.

    I think I'm going to need to rebuild or replace the slave cylinder (not sure if they make a rebuild kit for it).

    Regardless, because of the very limited space if it's affordable and relatively simple to do, I'm going to do it. Like you said, makes for good insurance.
  17. notabmw1

    notabmw1 Smoking Along

    Buy new slave, check the rubber hose going down to it as well if the rubber is getting squishy. I usually replace with the braided variety. Yes when you have a SPI or MPI with brake booster it makes working in the engine bay even more a pain in the ass. That's why I like my clubby, lots of room under the hood, got a bean cans for brake and clutch, simple simple simple.


    Of course I am gonna clutter mine up with the turbo, but that's okay, still will be easier to work on the the later ones.


    I just finished this guys, besides wiring being a little cheesy, the rest turned out good:


    1380 Unit with fresh Hif44 setup, aluminum head, 1.5 rockers, elgin cam, etc.
    turbofiat124 likes this.
  18. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Hey, I turbocharged my Yugo. I'm running a 1500cc Fiat engine, T25 from a Saab 9000 and blowing through a Weber 28/28 DFTA.
    Currently the car is "parked" in my garage awaiting for me to swap out the cartridge. Otherwise it starts leaking oil into the exhaust. It smokes worse than my Trabant!

    The rebuild I did on the worn turbo was not as successful as the T3 I did on my Fiat Spider. I guess once the shaft wears down it can't be rebuilt. Unless of course you turn down the shaft and use oversized bearings. But I've never heard of anyone doing that. Normally they just chuck the cartridge and buy a new one for $200. Which was what I should have done to begin with.

    What sort of components are you using on your Mini?

    I've got a mismatch of stuff:

    GM throttle body fuel pump (20 PSI)
    Malpassi 1:1 fuel pressure regulator from a Maserati Bi-turbo
    GM "5 pin" HEI control module used for boost retard.

    By the way, love the finned carb bonnet!
  19. Justin

    Justin Founder Moderator

    As far as components are concerned, everything is pretty much stock or OEM, I'm personally not to big on deviating away from what the factory wanted. Exceptions to that are heated seats or stereo equipment, both of which can be removed with little effort.

    For the parts I was missing, such as the alternator, starter and grill, I bought original parts for it and then for things like my carb and dizzy, I am just going to have them both rebuilt. Well, I'll rebuild the carb myself, but I will have the dizzy sent off.
  20. Justin

    Justin Founder Moderator

    Thought I would update....I got most of the parts sourced over the last few months although just found out that a wheel bearing seal it trashed, so I will need to replace all of that....easy enough, I have the motor out, subframe out, just replaced all the motor mounts and got the engine bolted back to the subframe....replaced all rubber gaiters and boots, got a new starter and alternator (as those did not come with the car), just a few more things and I ought to be at a point to try and slide the motor back in and get to going on it.

Share This Page