1. Penfold

    Penfold Newbie

    Hi all,

    The trabi has developed a new minor fault which might be an indication of something more severe-ish. When I apply the handbrake it comes up so far before it goes tight, clunks and then sets as it should. There’s nothing obvious at fault, but I suspect that the cable will break if I continue to use it too much more. Perhaps a kink in the cable?

    Any thoughts on what it might be and how I can remedy it?

  2. 'bant

    'bant Loyal Comrade

    Well you can see the cables if you crawl under your Trabant so a visual check should not take more than a couple of minutes. There are also two grease nipples, one on each rear cable which need periodic greasing. Near the grease nipples the cables sit close to the floorpan. There should be two felt/rubber patches that stop the cable from catching on the floorpan. If these are missing then you might get a sound from the cables hitting the floorpan when you apply the handbrake.
  3. 'bant

    'bant Loyal Comrade

    Perhaps also worth checking that the hand brake lever is properly fastened to the floor.
  4. Penfold

    Penfold Newbie

    Hi all,

    Waited for the car’s MoT to use the excuse to climb under the car. No obvious cause for the clunk and more frustratingly it’s intermittent now.

    Most important thing is the car passed her MoT without advisories!

  5. barrie

    barrie Puttering Along

    you are best to jack up the car take the back wheel's of and remove the drum sound daft but when I dun it to my trabi the back left and frunt right brake system had fell apart and if the shoes have come of track your hand brake will pull them until they bite up on some think I have found trabant's do not like to sit
  6. Steve

    Steve Loyal Comrade

    No they don't like to sit. Any clunking should be investigated by taking the drums off and looking at the braking system. I recently had a clunking problem, thought it was maybe the drive shafts or wheel bearings, until I eventually came to the rear brakes and discovered one of the shoes was canting over towards the drum surface and had a bright metal contact mark. Further examination showed that the piston operating that shoe was seized. After freeing the piston and resetting the shoes and drum, the troublesome shoe was still wanting to slip out of position from its adjuster. I ended up drilling a hole through the backplate and utilising a spring, washer and keeper through the central slot of the shoe, similar to other shoe brakes on older cars. This works fine and now no clunking.
    phi likes this.

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