1. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Mine had those yellow/green battery cables with those clamp on style connectors. I don't think these were the original cables.

    One day the electrical system on mine went completely dead. I thought it was the battery. I ended up replacing the cables and it fixed the problem.
  2. trondd

    trondd Loyal Comrade

    I threw the battery on the charger yesterday. It finished up at 12.9V. This morning it's down to 12.5V.

    You can get an idea what I've got for cables.

    Attached Files:

  3. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Yeah, sounds like your battery is shot. A good battery should hold a charge of 12.6 volts for at least a month. Although I did have a battery that was producing 12.6 volts that didn't have enough cold cranking amps to turn over my Fiat Spider's 2 liter engine.

    Those cables don't look all that bad. The ones with clamp on style connectors have always given me problems. They tend to rust and corrode. Advance Auto sells battery cables with steel plated connectors. I'd stay away from those. They are very hard to tighten up they way they are designed.

    AutoZone sells the ones with lead connectors and they are not that expensive. I think I paid less than $20 for a pair. These are the best ones because you can always scratch off any corrosion and there is less of a chance the copper wiring will corrode inside the connectors.

    Here is what one battery cable looked like on my Trabant when the car wouldn't start:


    I had replaced the clamps on connectors after I got the car. This is why these type of connectors are not any good. Battery acid will quickly corrode and rust the zinc coating off the connectors.
  4. mati0921

    mati0921 Loyal Comrade

    they are the original cables, and should be replaced. they have too much resistance in them, which causes all sorts of problems. Leave the batery for a few days, and see if it drops any further. :)
  5. trondd

    trondd Loyal Comrade

    Battery held charge for a week this time but still can't start the car more than once. My spare battery (which is also pretty small) works every time, no problem.

    I cleaned the connectors at the battery. The positive side wasn't seating to the terminal very well. Turned out the little bolts clamping the cable in was too long and hitting the battery case. I spaced that out and I get a good bite on the terminal now.

    Seeing half a volt drop on the positive cable while cranking, which I guess is ok. Going for a new battery anyway and will likely replace the cable, too.

    Car keeps stalling at idle after driving for a couple miles. Only thing I've changed is plumbing in the economizer sending unit. I suspect it's bad. Clogged up maybe or sticking and causing a restriction in fuel flow. Probably why it wasn't hooked up to begin with. Have to de-plumb it.
  6. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    So far I've had good luck with those $50 Value Power batteries from Wal-Mart. I installed one on my Citroen in the spring of 2017 and it's still holding up. I just recently installed one on my Fiat Spider.

    No bigger than the Trabant engine is, it doesn't take that many cold cranking amps to turn over a 600 cc engine.

    I really surprise that 6 volt Excide battery I got from Tractor Supply is still holding a charge 6 years later. I think it only had a 2 year warranty.

    The two tricks I found to getting the most life out of a battery is make sure it's topped off with demineralized or distilled water and whenever you are not driving the car, connect a trickle charger to it. Even if it's just for a month.

    I have four classic cars (not counting the Yugo which hasn't been on the road in a couple of years) I drive throughout the summer. I'll drive one car for a week, then drive the other. Whenever I'm not driving it, I just connect a trickle charger to it even if it's going to be parked for a month. That maybe overkill but it's not a big deal.
  7. trondd

    trondd Loyal Comrade

    I saw what looked like a battery that would fit when I was at Wal-Mart yesterday. <$50 for a car battery? I can't trust it. :D

    My batteries usually last ok. I bring them inside for the winter and they hold their charge. I top them up in the Spring before reinstalling them. I have the most trouble with batteries in my Fiat. The clock slowly over drains the battery if I leave it connected. None of my other old stuff has a constant draw (except my truck but 2 batteries helps).
  8. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    What kind of Fiat do you have?
  9. trondd

    trondd Loyal Comrade

    Attached Files:

  10. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

  11. trondd

    trondd Loyal Comrade

    I mostly hang out on fiatspider.com but not much. The car hasn't really needed anything. Although, a new top and an engine refresh/rebuild are on the list.
  12. 'bant

    'bant Loyal Comrade

    Although the 2cv engine is somewhat higher compression 8.5 or 9 to one. The engines also suffer from high crankcase pressures (hence the large oil filler/breather tube) but I don't know if that makes for harder starting. However, when you get down to -20'c there is not much difference in cranking speed between my 12v 2cv and my 6v Trabant.
  13. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Batteries are a crap shoot. I've had some car batteries die in 2 years and others with 2 year warranties will go for 8 years. I can't see paying twice that much just for a better warranty since batteries are prorated. In this country anyway.

    With the battery that came on my 2CV , would crank over at 12.2 volts. Which is unusual because most batteries won't turn an engine over below 12.6. it got to where if it fell below that after a couple of weeks would not start the car so I replaced it.

    The good thing is you can use the floor jack to manually start a 2CV. Only problem is the engine has to cold. Otherwise mine requires up to 15 seconds or more of cranking in 35C weather. Unless it sits for an hour to cool off.

    I noticed every now and then my 2CV will run on for a second or two after shutting the engine off. Carbon buildup? Engine doesn't like E10 87 octane fuel? Otherwise it doesn't ping under full throttle.
  14. 'bant

    'bant Loyal Comrade

    Hot starting issues with 2cvs are usually a coil that is going off. Replace the coil and hot starting should improve dramatically. Normal hot start procedure for a 2cv is you need to depress the throttle pedal fully and crank until the engine catches.

    Not sure about running on, I have never experienced that with my Dyane. Maybe worth checking valve clearances. I never run mine on anything less than Euro 95 and in summer it runs a bit better on Euro 98.
  15. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I actually replaced my coil on the advice of some owners in the U.K.

    One guy said I could use a coil from a Harley Davidson so that was what I used:


    No difference. This car has new plugs, plug wires, coil and electronic ignition. It is just as hard to start as any of my other carbureted cars. Whether is be my 68 Ford, Trabant, Citroen or Yugo.

    I use the "pedal to the floor" and crank method when it get's hot. My Citroen seems to be worst at hot starts compared to my other carbureted cars.

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