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  1. kingrat

    kingrat Newbie

    Anyone fitted one of these?


    The instructions came with it - in German. I'm not an idiot and it looks fairly straightforward to fit. BUT I'm at a loss as to what the 'spare' connector on the board is for. I've run the instructions through google translate but (I'm quoting word for word here)
    "Auxillary mass connection to the vehicle mass(removed after the ignition adjustment)" means nothing to me - unless it's a temporary earth? Why would it be a temporary earth?

    I've had confirmation it's not an earth, it's an additional live feed to be taken from either of the coils. Thing is if that's the case why is it not part of the loom thats been supplied? If anyone can decipher the instructions I'd be eternally grateful.

    Last edited: Jul 2, 2017
  2. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    on the 3 cylinder wartburg version there is a wire for each cylinder and a spare terminal is for 12volts POSITIVE . I'm guessing the spare terminal on your two cylinder trabi one is also positive . But this is only a guess so find out for certain or you will fry it
  3. kingrat

    kingrat Newbie

    Hence the question on here. I'm still thinking earth rather than positive, just need sanity checking.
  4. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    It's definitely a positive on the three cylinder version ,the circuitry on the board is going to need a power supply to work?
  5. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    Also there are dire warnings in instructions about over tightening the grub screw in the black plastic rotor. Apparently it breaks easily. If you look in yahoo group files i posted an english translation for the 3 cylinder one years ago
  6. RogerDerSchrauber

    RogerDerSchrauber Premium Member Forum Donor

    scan the instructions, post them here, and we'll translate.
    kingrat likes this.
  7. kingrat

    kingrat Newbie

    Thanks everyone.
    How is it I can fix pretty much anything on my Disco3 without even having to think about it? But when faced with a task on possibly the simplest car ever, I end up weeping quietly into my coffee mug in a dark corner of the garage every Sunday!?
  8. kingrat

    kingrat Newbie

    .........aaaaaaaaand I'm officially an idot.

    This replaces the mechanical points system - not the weird electrickery system installed on mine (which isn't working and I was hoping to replace today)

    I'm off to kick the cat.
  9. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    Ah When you were talking about 'spare' terminal i thought you meant the one that is connected to 12+ (white wire ) . I would connect 1 and 2 to negative side of coils ,hook up 3 the white wire to positive side of coils and see if it works without the fourth terminal connected .I think you are right about the fourth wire being a temp earth but see if it works ok without 4 connected . Remember you want plug to spark at 3.5mm with engine being rotated forward in normal direction of travel ( don't turn engine backwards)
  10. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    Bugger you need to then buy the advance mech bit from somewhere ( i'll have a search and post a link)
  11. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

  12. TNTrabi

    TNTrabi Lord Trabi Forum Donor

    I have an extra mechanical advance with the correct bolt to mount it if you need it. I am located in Tennessee. My number is under my profile if you want to call and we can work out getting it to you.
    kingrat likes this.
  13. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Here is a reply I sent to Socialist Partier concerning this systems, ignore any other content:


    I placed my first order of parts from LDM but haven't ordered anything from them since. Not really because of any overly bad experiences, although they did delay my order a couple of months because they had to "custom build" my electronic ignition system because it was for a 6 volt model. Although there really isn't any difference. The only difference is there is a 6 to 12 volt converter which is screwed onto the board. I think they seem rather high on the stuff compared to the other vendors.

    As far as the coils are concerned. Do you mean, do they have a ballast resistor? There is not one on my car. The concern I've read about the coils are some electronic ignition systems don't like certain high energy coils. I've heard these can damage the system. When used with just points, they seem to be no problem. I wonder if using a set of 6 volt coils from Tractor Supply for a Ford 800 tractor would work just fine with this system?

    I think it's just the fact that these systems are not built that great to begin with. I have not had any trouble with mine except for that stupid 6 to 12 volt converter built onto the board. Mine fried before I could get the timing set correctly. I ended up wiring the EI to my 6 to 12 volt converter I use for my radio and other stuff and have not had any issues with it. Knock on wood. There are supposed to be better systems developed since I've got mine.

    The system works great but it took me 5 attempts to set it up. It is not as straight forward like installing a Pertronix Ignitor system on a Ford small block V8.

    If you decide to get one of these, I would just about have to walk you through it on the phone or through a webcam or something like Skype . But here is it in a nutshell.

    First you'll need to find TDC for both cylinders. You can use one of those dial depth gauges (Harbor Freight sells them for around $10) but I used one of those small metal rulers that has the clip to connect to a shirt pocket. I pressed the "shirt clip" against the top of the head, pushed the ruler until it hit the top of the piston then rotated the engine over until the ruler stopped moving and noticed the distance. I think I measured 26 mm.

    Create some reference marks on the engine and crankshaft pulley with a marker or paint pen. Do the same for the other cylinder but use a difference colored marker or paint pen.

    The reason for finding TDC for both cylinders is the engine can get out of phase because the crankshaft is in two pieces and is pressed together. So if one cylinder is off, you can compensate by adjusting the breaker plate and the other set of points. With electronic ignition you can't. So if the crankshaft is out of phase, you will have to compensate by retarding the timing a bit to get both to fire as close as possible.

    If you have had the points cover off you will notice two sets of points and two condensers, one for each cylinder. To install the system, first remove the breaker plate that holds the points and condensers then install the round circuit board.

    I can't remember which wire goes to which coil but you can trace them down. You plug the wires going to the negative side of the coils to each respective pin on the board. You run a third wire from the + power pin on the board the + side of the either coil.

    Now comes what I found was the hardest part. There is a plastic ring with two magnets that slides over the points lobe. You would think it would only slide on one way or with the least amount of resistance. But it doesn't. Maybe my points lobe is worn a bit.

    The trick is to get at least one of the cylinders to fire at TDC without the engine running using a timing light. This is the first time I have ever set the timing with a timing light without an engine running!

    Slide the plastic ring over the points lobe to where it slides on easily but do not tighten the lock screw. Adjust the round circuit board "in the middle" and just snug the screws down abit. NOTE, be sure to place some lock washers or Lock-Tite on the threads once the timing is adjusted. I've had these screws vibrate loose in the past!

    Hook up a timing light to either cylinder. Turn the ignition on but don't start the car. Slowly turn the engine over clockwise. When you see the light flash, stop turning and note the marks on the engine and crankshaft pulley. You can't rotate the engine backwards with the electronic ignition system, it has to turn clockwise in order to get the timing light to flash again.

    If the marks on that particular cylinder do not line up when the light flashes, pull the plastic ring off and manually rotate it a bit. If I recall, if the light flashes when the mark on the crankshaft pulley is past the mark on the engine (ATDC) pull the ring off and rotate it counter clockwise just a bit then rotate the engine over again and check for a flash.

    Now, tighten all screws and lock nuts and start the engine. It should start.

    Check to see if the marks align on #2 cylinder. Then check to see if the marks align on #1. If the crankshaft is not out of phase, the timing light should flash at TDC on both cylinders. If one cylinder is spot on but the other one is not, rotate the circuit board a bit to get both to fire as close as possible to one another.

    So for example if #2 is spot on but #1 is advanced say 2 degrees, rotate the plate so #2 is retarded 1 degree.

    A good example is Fiat twin cam timing belts. Usually after the head has been resurfaced, the belt will always be off my one tooth on one of the camshafts. The trick is to rotate the intake cam inward and the exhaust cam inward then slip the belt. That way both cylinders are off by 1/2 a tooth instead of a full tooth on one cylinder.

    Another tip. Make sure the engine speed is 700 rpms before you install the system. Otherwise the centrifugal advance starts to kick in around 1200 rpms and is fully advance by around 1500 rpms. That will make setting the static timing much harder.

    Use a 4 cylinder tachometer and connect it to one coil. Whatever number you get, divide by 2 and that will tell you the engine speed.

    If none of this doesn't make sense, don't feel bad because it didn't make sense to me either. Like I said I can probably walk you through it with my phone one day on my car and point out what to do.
  14. RogerDerSchrauber

    RogerDerSchrauber Premium Member Forum Donor

    Here's my take on it. Hope it helps.

    Mounting instructions for electronic ignition EZ-2.

    The EZ-2 board completely replaces the mechanical contact breaker plate/points ignition. No other control unit is needed. The ignition coils connect directly to the EZ-2 board. For an uncomplicated connection, the set of cables enclosed function simultaneously as a power conduit to make it all work. Make sure you only use ignition coils designed for use with electronic ignition.

    First disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

    Remove the cover of the ignition housing and then the contact breaker plate assembly, but leave the centrifugal advance mechanism attached to the motor.
    Exchange the ignition control cable for the enclosed three-core cable; lead the one end with the two plug contacts through the hole into the ignition housing.

    Insert the EZ-2 board into the ignition housing according to Fig. 1.

    Connect the board with the ignition coils according to this wiring plan:
    EZ-2 board: 1- black- ignition coil for cylinder 1, terminal 1
    2- green – ignition coil 2, terminal 1
    3- white- ignition coils terminal 15
    4 – auxiliary ground connection (to the main vehicle ground) which is removed after the ignition is adjusted.

    Place the plastic ring on the ignition distributor cam (see fig. 2) and secure it with a gap or clearance of 0.5mm in front of or ahead of the board.

    Adjustment of ignition according to manufacturer’s specifications: 3 to 4 mm BTDC.
  15. RogerDerSchrauber

    RogerDerSchrauber Premium Member Forum Donor

    I bought this kit a while back, when I thought my EBZA was shot. Turns out it was only a bad coil, so, the kit is in my spare parts cabinet.

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