I was wanting to do this back in the winter but thanks to contracting a possible flu, about five consecutive colds plus bitter cold subfreezing temperatures in January, I didn't get a chance to do much of anything except fool around with repairing some old PCs in my den. So I've put this project off long enough. I think I'm going to tackle this, this summer and repaint the car afterwards. I've had it almost 6 years. Here is my idea. If any of this sound dodgy let me know. 1) Do one side at a time. For some reason the passenger side has the most rust. I don't know why. 2) Raise one side up, remove both wheels and sit the brake drums directly onto some steel ramps. This will give me more room to work and protect the tires from any sparks. My 110 volt gas-less wire welder, gives off quite a bit of sparks. 3) Remove the quarter panels and fenders (headlights, turn signal lights and tail lights of course). 4) I would like to remove the door for more access. But I think this is going to be difficult. I have removed these door hinge screws before using an impact screwdriver but other times I've had no luck. I noticed that the screws on the door itself have been spot welded in place. So I guess it will I'll have to remove the hinges from the door jams. If I can remove the doors, should I shove a 2X4 between the door jams? If not would the car collapse? Any worries of this happening? 5) Instead of drilling out all the spot welds, my plan was to just cut the sills off with a reciprocating saw. Then grind the metal down flush. One reason for this is, is leaving the old lips behind should give me more metal to weld to. 6) This is something I've never heard done before but at work we have these metal bars we use in sea containers to keep the sacks from falling out when the doors are opened that we also use as handrail tubing. It's about 1.5" to 2" square tubing and the walls are about 1/4" thick. My idea is to weld these directly to the body from one end to the other. Then the new sills will go over top. I'm thinking this should make the car more ridged. 7) When welding the new sills in place, should I just drill holes in the lips of the new sills or through the body as well? Then just fill in the holes? How far apart should the holes be? I considered buying one of these which would make the job easier? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-S...545427&hash=item545b4bcc4f:g:jiEAAOSwNNda6dBw It says the tongs has a 6" span. I'm not sure if that's long enough to weld the backside of the sills or not. I maybe able to rent one of these. I doubt after this project I'd have any use for it. 8) After I get the new sills welded in, this should be the structural integrity of the car so I should be able to patch any other rust holes with fiberglass once I treat the metal with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. There's a big gaping hole in the rear wheel well on the passenger side and between the quarter-panels and the trunk floor. I don't know if you guys have ever used this stuff but I've used it may times before and it works great at stopping the rust. Unlike the POR-15, this stuff can be thinned down with lacquer (cellulose?) thinner and applied with a foam brush to sink into cracks. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-black-rust-encapsulator-paint-over-rust.html Have I missed anything?