Hey guys. I'm probably jumping the gun on this but wanted to post some of my photos of my electronic ignition system I "built". Ever since I accidentally shorted out the electronic ignition on my Trabant, I've been looking into building a better mousetrap. I ordered a replacement MOSFET and soldered it onto the board but #2 cylinder is still dead. However I think I may have not soldered it onto the board good enough and it's just not making contact with the other circuits. I'll investigate this further. In the meantime I've been working on a wasted spark ignition system using a conversion kit for a VW Type I. Like my Citroen 2CV. From what I've read wasted spark ignitions have been used on other 2 cylinder 2 stroke engines like snowmobiles with no problems so it should work on a Trabant. Here are some photos so far. You'll have to goto my Google Drive. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FMwSo_lmwxT_TyHkLNLOJm7vOephTvfS I think I am going to ditch making my own plates out of fiberglass (way too time consuming) and mount the module on an old breaker plate instead. The system fired but I needed a helping hand at getting the timing in the ballpark just enough to keep the engine running. So I had to get Dad to crank the engine over while I checked the timing. Anybody who has ever tried to set the timing on these cars knows it's a pain in the rear. Or at least I think it is. Seems like it's always a two man job. One person to crank the engine over and one to adjust the plate while holding a timing light. I need to rig up a remote starter. For some odd reason, the timing was way off on my first attempt. I rotated the plate 180 degrees and manged to get the engine to idle somewhere between TDC and 33 degrees BTDC but at the furtherest most adjustment point on my board. So I cannot advance the timing further. But the engine idles, doesn't backfire or missfire so as of right now this seems to be a success. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hQxz-lcQ-VokoVTkqFQD2xHyqaLmr2ha You would think since this system fires every 90 degrees (instead of every 180 degrees), the adjustment would be more sensitive but it's just as sensitive as the other system as well as points. The plan is to do some more notching on the plate (instead of rotating the module) then compare this to an old breaker plate and find the correct location for the module to it. Also the idea is to get rid of the starter retard mechanism and run a fixed timing like the EBZA systems. I still need to verify if my marks are accurate. 33 degrees BTDC is the correct timing on points systems? QUESTIONS: Is this something you guys would be interested in? Most likely the system would cost a little more than shipping a similar until from Germany. I jumped the gun and ordered a new aftermarket system and it cost me 30 Euros. I have not settled on a price yet. This system would cut the electronics in half. No exposed circuitry to short out. There would be a core charge on breaker plates. I'll also need a couple of test mules to test the system out before putting it out there. Robert Dunn has volunteered to be one of them. In other words, be prepared to throw the breaker plate back on in case something happens. Apparently these systems are as sensitive as the aftermarket system is. Such as with low resistance coils (MSD ACCELL) and voltages greater than 13.7 volts. Still some other issues to sort out. Like how to power the system on 6 volt cars since most cars that runs points are 6 volt models. For me I already have a 6 to 12 volt converter for my radio and other circuits. These step up converters seem to have more circuitry than the actual ignition system! The problem is the converter I would like to use costs around $30 so that would add $30 to the system. I do have some smaller 2 amp units but they are made in China and I'm not sure how reliable they are. I'm also not sure how many amps these modules pulls. If it's more than 2 amps, I'll have to come up with something.