I get some weird readings on my Fiat Spider from time to time. It has a 65 amp Bosch alternator with the "piggyback" regulator. I just noticed if I've been driving around all day, I can test the voltage directly at the battery with it running and get something like 13.2 volts. If the car hasn't been driven in awhile or hasn't had a trickle charger connected, the voltage can be has high as 14.3 volts running. I haven't tested this with the lights on. On the Citroen 2CV, it actually uses an Iskra alternator. My Yugo "came with" an Iskra 45 amp alternator but it's not the same kind. It now has a 55 amp Bosch from an Fiat X 1/9. The 2Cv uses an external regulator. Where the Yugo uses one that is pretty much a copy of the Bosch. My Tomos TX-50 uses Iskra coil. My Tomos is made in Slovenia. 2CVs were also built by Tomos in Slovenia under licence from Citroen. That may explain the connection. I had a weird incident with my 58 Ford tractor. It has an AC Delco 10 SI alternator. One day I tested the voltage on it and it was reading as high as 15 volts. I thought the regulator was bad. Long story short, the battery was low on water. I topped it off and now the voltage is as low as 13 volts. I've got a 60 amp AC Delco 10 SI alternator on my Trabant but with a 6 volt, voltage regulator. I got more electrical power than I need now. This alternator fixed my battery indicator light from coming on from time to time while running 65 watt headlights + 55 watt auxiliary lights which pretty much took up all the generator's 220 watt capacity. Only issue afterwards was when I turned the headlights on, the alternator would sense the load on the electrical system and the idle speed would drop. On a 100+ HP engine, you would barely notice this but on a 26 HP engine, it can drag the engine down. I installed LED headlights and auxiliary lights. I tested the current draw and it's down to 4 amps total. Only problem is the high beams don't cast as far as the incandescent bulbs. But the low beams work great. BTW, here is a project I plan on tackling in the meantime. Have you ever fooled with fuse boxes on 60s Fords? Here's a video and an instructable written by the same guy. It's the only one I can find on the internet: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-repair-a-65-67-falcon-or-mustang-fuse-box/ Here is what it looks like front and back. Apparently you cannot buy new fuse boxes, just new replacement clips for the fuses. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.c...-Leads-XR7-Used-1969-1970-Mercury-Cougar.html I ordered some new fuse clips but I thought I'd just replace the old fusebox using the same ATO fusebox I used on my Trabant but it looks more complicated than that. The fuse box is held to the firewall with a long bolt and pops into a green square connector with about 20+ pins. Despite having only 5 fuses, it has multiple wires going to the fuse box inside the cabin but then on the other side of the fire wall, there are wires exiting it that feed the circuits in the engine compartment. So unless I want to match up all of these wires, my best bet is to just replace the clips. I got another issue to sort out. I started the engine yesterday after the car has sat for 2.5 years. It runs really rough, dies at idle and blows black smoke. I think the float valve is stuck open so it's using way too much fuel. Which is sort of weird. This car sat at my grandmother's house from 1994 to 1999. When she gave it to me, I had it towed to my house, sanded the points, siphoned the gas out of the fuel tank, filled it up with new fuel and it started right up. Normally float valves stick open on gravity feed systems after they have sat for awhile. And they stick closed on cars with fuel pumps. Because the fuel evaporates out of the fuel bowel and they stick. Well that's my experience anyway. I may rig up a 2 liter Pepsi bottle with some fuel injection cleaner mix with it and see if i can run it off this stuff to unclog it before pulling the lid off the carburetor. And use the fuel pump to pump the old gas out of the tank. But it's a 2 barrel Autolite carburetor so it shouldn't be too hard to clean even if I had to take it off the engine. The worst carburetor I've ever messed with is a Rochester Quadrojet on a 454 Big Block. Years ago I had a Techumseh lawn mower engine that was doing this same thing after it sat for several years. I just drained the fuel out of the carburetor, connected a hose and small funnel to the inlet of the carb and filled the fuel bowel full of Outlaw fuel injection cleaner and let it sit for about an hour. I drained it, and it started right up and ran fine! Maybe I got lucky.