1. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I get some weird readings on my Fiat Spider from time to time. It has a 65 amp Bosch alternator with the "piggyback" regulator. I just noticed if I've been driving around all day, I can test the voltage directly at the battery with it running and get something like 13.2 volts. If the car hasn't been driven in awhile or hasn't had a trickle charger connected, the voltage can be has high as 14.3 volts running. I haven't tested this with the lights on.

    On the Citroen 2CV, it actually uses an Iskra alternator. My Yugo "came with" an Iskra 45 amp alternator but it's not the same kind. It now has a 55 amp Bosch from an Fiat X 1/9.

    The 2Cv uses an external regulator. Where the Yugo uses one that is pretty much a copy of the Bosch. My Tomos TX-50 uses Iskra coil. My Tomos is made in Slovenia. 2CVs were also built by Tomos in Slovenia under licence from Citroen. That may explain the connection.

    I had a weird incident with my 58 Ford tractor. It has an AC Delco 10 SI alternator. One day I tested the voltage on it and it was reading as high as 15 volts. I thought the regulator was bad. Long story short, the battery was low on water. I topped it off and now the voltage is as low as 13 volts.

    I've got a 60 amp AC Delco 10 SI alternator on my Trabant but with a 6 volt, voltage regulator. I got more electrical power than I need now. This alternator fixed my battery indicator light from coming on from time to time while running 65 watt headlights + 55 watt auxiliary lights which pretty much took up all the generator's 220 watt capacity. Only issue afterwards was when I turned the headlights on, the alternator would sense the load on the electrical system and the idle speed would drop. On a 100+ HP engine, you would barely notice this but on a 26 HP engine, it can drag the engine down. I installed LED headlights and auxiliary lights. I tested the current draw and it's down to 4 amps total. Only problem is the high beams don't cast as far as the incandescent bulbs. But the low beams work great.

    BTW, here is a project I plan on tackling in the meantime. Have you ever fooled with fuse boxes on 60s Fords?

    Here's a video and an instructable written by the same guy. It's the only one I can find on the internet:


    Here is what it looks like front and back. Apparently you cannot buy new fuse boxes, just new replacement clips for the fuses.


    I ordered some new fuse clips but I thought I'd just replace the old fusebox using the same ATO fusebox I used on my Trabant but it looks more complicated than that.

    The fuse box is held to the firewall with a long bolt and pops into a green square connector with about 20+ pins. Despite having only 5 fuses, it has multiple wires going to the fuse box inside the cabin but then on the other side of the fire wall, there are wires exiting it that feed the circuits in the engine compartment.

    So unless I want to match up all of these wires, my best bet is to just replace the clips.

    I got another issue to sort out.

    I started the engine yesterday after the car has sat for 2.5 years. It runs really rough, dies at idle and blows black smoke. I think the float valve is stuck open so it's using way too much fuel. Which is sort of weird. This car sat at my grandmother's house from 1994 to 1999. When she gave it to me, I had it towed to my house, sanded the points, siphoned the gas out of the fuel tank, filled it up with new fuel and it started right up.

    Normally float valves stick open on gravity feed systems after they have sat for awhile. And they stick closed on cars with fuel pumps. Because the fuel evaporates out of the fuel bowel and they stick. Well that's my experience anyway.

    I may rig up a 2 liter Pepsi bottle with some fuel injection cleaner mix with it and see if i can run it off this stuff to unclog it before pulling the lid off the carburetor. And use the fuel pump to pump the old gas out of the tank.

    But it's a 2 barrel Autolite carburetor so it shouldn't be too hard to clean even if I had to take it off the engine. The worst carburetor I've ever messed with is a Rochester Quadrojet on a 454 Big Block.

    Years ago I had a Techumseh lawn mower engine that was doing this same thing after it sat for several years. I just drained the fuel out of the carburetor, connected a hose and small funnel to the inlet of the carb and filled the fuel bowel full of Outlaw fuel injection cleaner and let it sit for about an hour. I drained it, and it started right up and ran fine! Maybe I got lucky.
  2. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    Hmm, never new about 2cv's under Tomos. I've had, and rebuilt many Mopeds... Tomos is the best!

    Never messed with a 60's ford box, but I did the same thing in the video to a 80 ford courier(Mazda with ford sticker). Didn't need to solder all the clips, just the solder joints up.

    One clip was broke off, so I soldered it on the back side.

    I drive this little truck almost everyday(was a farm truck for 10 years). The repair is holding fine.

    The biggest tip I have, is to clean the wires VERY well. Soldering old dirty wires,---simply sucks!

    On the brass stuff, phosphoric acid(known as prep & etch at home depot) will shine it like brand new(also eats rust super quick-without harming metal).

    You could dip the tips of your wires into it, they will be cleaned quickly- but the acid may eat the coating off. Keep it away from aluminum!

    Either way they need to me chemically cleaned-or nothing will stick.

    Just do one wire at a time..
  3. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Sounds like your into just about everything like myself. My Tomos is actually a kid's minibike with a moped drive train and brakes. I'm wanting to say it uses an A35 engine and transmission. I'm trying to migrate all of my photos over my Photobucket page to my Google drive but you might be able to find it on my Photobucket page if you can get through all the pop up ads.

    One project I want to work on this summer is my Kinetic TFR (Luna) moped. I can't get the engine to run and since the 50 cc engine has no balls anyway, the plan is to chop off the pedals and installed a 110 cc 4 stroke engine. The pedals are going to have to come off to make room for the engine.

    I've got a bunch of those kid's ATVs I bought for parts and one of them has a 110 cc engine on it. I tested my daughter's 110 cc ATV and it goes up this steep hill just fine (with both me and her on it 155+75 lbs + the ATV) in a subdivision behind my house. The plan is to use the 110 cc engine off one of these parts bikes and install it on the Kinetic. Since I won't be carrying my 75 lb daughter with me and the moped probably weighs less than the ATV, it should do OK.

    Yeah your right about the wires. I typically stick the strains into some 100% acetic acid then dunk it into some water which turns it nice and shiny before installing new connectors or soldering.

    I got my fusebox installed on my 68 Fairlane yesterday. Everything seems to work. I'll have to upload the photo from my phone.

    Another weird thing. I started the engine and now it runs fine! My guess is the fuel dislodged the stuck float valve while sitting over night. I still need to get that 2.5 year old gas out of the fuel tank.
  4. A Spooky Ghost

    A Spooky Ghost Loyal Comrade

    I had a Kinetic (Indian) moped. If your gonna slap another engine on it- then thats fine.

    In no way does it compare to a Tomos.. When original at least. Up till a few years ago, they were sold in Northeren Hydraulics catalogs for around $700. It is a copy of an Italian bike..
  5. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

  6. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I'm almost there. I test fitting my system to a spare engine and it seems like everything seems to line up. I've just had allot of other stuff going on at the moment.

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