12v accessory plug
I'm trying to get a guy I work with to get his buddy who works at the local Tempurpedic mattress factory to get me some scrap pieces of firm memory foam material to make new foam rubber padding out of . I''ve had the seat covers for almost 4 years. This winter during the restoration I'm going to have them redone as well as getting the headlight rings powder coated gloss black.
Spent the day trying to solve my starting problems! I've replace a suspect fuel line, cleaned the spark plugs, drained and washed the inside of the fuel tank, replaced the parts and cleaned the petcock and it still won't start! Now the battery is going flat, so I'll need to jump start it when I get more time.
It leaks still from the connection from the petcock to the first fuel line, however I doubt this is causing a failure to start. Any more ideas anyone?
Also to a lesser extent, any way to plug the leak at the fuel cock?
You can get a reduild kit for the pet cock,obvious question but is the fuel getting to the carb?
Some of it is, yeah. Although it seems not too much. Do the mauskinos tend to cause problems at all?
As for the petcock, I already had a rebuild kit in my kit of spares which I inherited. So it's already been fitted.
To get a petrol engine to work you need 4 things. Adequate supply of petrol to the carburettor jets, enough air supply to the carburettor, a spark at the correct time, enough compression to make the petrol/air mix ignite. Check that all these things are present and you should be in business. Easiest is check for a spark at both plugs. Take them out, switch on ignition, turn engine over with plug electrode grounded on top of cylinder head. No spark means broken wires, faulty plug, faulty coil, faulty points, faulty EBZA electronic system. If you have a spark check the timing to see if it correct. Check compression on each cylinder with a compression tester. Both cylinders should read nearly the same. If not, could be broken piston rings, or hole in cylinder/piston, cylinder head gasket or cracked crankcase. Then thoroughly clean carb and jets and make sure float, level and valve are all working correctly..Check air filter and airway to carb is not blocked. If all checks ok you should get some action hopefully. As a last resort you could try spraying Easystart (ether) into the air intake whilst cranking the engine over with the starter. A good spark and compression will make it fire. Then it would be a carb/ petrol supply problem.
I love that accessory plug, frogbros.
Been tinkering with my wife's Trabi all summer. replaced some mirrors, bulbs, lenses, etc.
Tried to put in storage today for the winter but couldn't get it started. 6v battery is completely charged, but when I turn the key I get nothing, no crank, no click, not even any lights. Any suggestions as to where I should start looking for the problem?
Sounds like a dead battery or battery lead
Well this will drive a person crazy...
I just WIGGLED THE BATTERY CABLES and the engine roared to life.
Either a loose or dodgey battery lead
Now the engine's running, but my left headlight and taillight are out. Lights on the right all work as do all turn signals.
I checked the no.1 fuse but that seems fine.
I've had no trouble for six months and everything goes on the same day. :-\
That's a Trabi for ya! Loose wiring, dirty fuse contacts, been there done that!
When mine did this, I had to install new battery cabels all together to fix mine.
The original aluminium battery cables are absolutely useless. replace with copper and crimp on terminals. most workshops have the tools for it.
One day mine only clicked in the starter. a million tries later it fired up. two weeks later it would not start at all. replaced the cables and no problems since.
Thanks for the advice ! I'll look at replacing the cables running from the battery to the starter.
I managed to get out for a drive today i needed some materials for work tomorrow so took the oppotunity to try my latest modification out since i fitted the bike carb a d foam filter there was a petrol smell and loud induction roar when driving the fan was drawing both inside so ive fitted the original rubber carb to air filter pipe onto the carb pointing upwards and fitted the foam filter on the end this has cured the problem there is still some induction roar i think i will refit the original air filter eventualy when i get another rubber pipe to fit between existing pipe and filter the noise would be wearing on long journeys especialy if you were driving 2000 miles like steve
My air induction layout is pretty standard but I'm still thinking of wearing ear defenders whilst driving on the trip!
Health and safety and all that!
New battery cables work well. When I got the old ones off I could see they were corroded etc.
Any idea what would cause my headlight and tail light to fail on the left side only? I was thinking it might be the dashboard light switch, but I installed a new one and it made no difference.
I assume you have checked the bulbs by swapping them to the right hand side to see if they work? If so you need a voltmeter/continuity tester to trace back the positive wiring from the bulbs to the fuse box, testing all the time for 12v or 6v (don't know what Trabi you have). On my fuse box each headlight has 2 fuses, one for high beam, one for dip beam. You need to identify which fuses are for the left headlamp and check the wiring into and out of the fuses and the fuses themselves for positive volts. The left rear lamp will be on another fuse (you really need to get the wiring diagram for your car from this forum or internet and trace the faulty circuits. I had to spend a lot of time tracing faults on my first Trabbi where hardly anything worked after standing for 25 years.
The fuses also have a habit of moving and loosing contact it's worth checking them out
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