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  1. Trabant_Mike

    Trabant_Mike Puttering Along

    I've managed to fix my fuelling issue, or so it seems! Fuel is now getting to the carb fortunately.

    The bad news is that it's still not starting. Part of this seems to be down to a dead battery. So I've ordered a new one to be fitted as soon as it arrives.

    I tried jump starting it, which seemed to bring a little more life into the starter when connected, but it still wouldn't fire. Once disconnected, the battery went dead. A trip the the garage confirmed that the battery needed replacing.

    What a pain in the arse! I've only managed just under 60km since the MOT!!!
  2. Steve

    Steve Loyal Comrade

    New trabbi3.jpg

    I now have the option of 0-60 mph in 21 seconds OR

    cbr 900rr fireblade.jpg

    I can do 0 - 60 mph in 2.9 seconds. Depends on my mood to ride one of the slowest or one of the fastest production road machines.

    Attached Files:

  3. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    Hmm life is full of decisions fast or slow?i must be getting old as I've sold my modern fast bikes and got older slower ones
  4. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    With my fusebox, the contacts were so bad, the ends of the wires had to be touching the ends of the fuses before they would make contact. After dealing with the LH headlamp going out, I installed an ATO fusebox and haven't had any issues since. I have these photos on Photobucket but nobody can see to access their webpage anymore unless they pay $33 a month! I'll have to post them here from my computer.
  5. ummeli

    ummeli Premium Member Forum Donor

    If you haven't already done so, replace the battery cables. The originals are garbage.
    RogerDerSchrauber likes this.
  6. ummeli

    ummeli Premium Member Forum Donor

    I'm still working on finding the problem -- left side headlight and taillight are still not working. I've got the wiring diagram so that should make my life a little easier.

    Regarding the fuses and the fuse box, is there any way to swap out the original fuse box for something new like this ATC/ATO one? My Trabi is a 1980 601-S 6V.

  7. Berlin89

    Berlin89 Puttering Along

    Last ride of the year today. Ran the carb out of gas, drained the tank, removed the battery.
  8. RogerDerSchrauber

    RogerDerSchrauber Premium Member Forum Donor

    I am about to do that, too, but am getting the brake fluid changed and front brakes done tomorrow first.
  9. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Yes I have one of those on my car. You need the one that has the spade terminals pointed vertically though.

    Photobucket has gotten to the point they bombard you with pop up windows and won't allow you to post individual photos on forums. If you can't see it in this album, I'll pull it off my computer and upload it.

    http://s222.photobucket.com/user/turbofiat/library/Trabant/6 volt alternator?sort=2&page=1
  10. ummeli

    ummeli Premium Member Forum Donor

    Are those 10A fuses in the picture? Do you have a 12V Trabi?

    Mine Trabi is a 6V and all the fuses are 8A (I think - I'm not so good at reading electrical schematics).

    As far as I can tell the only 8A bladed fuse boxes are replacements for old VW equipment, and take only ceramic fuses. :-(

    The only 8-way bladed fuse box for 8A ceramic fuses that I can find costs US$49.50 from ozautoelectrics.com. Definitely more than I want to pay.

    If you have any suggestions I'd love to hear them.
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2017
  11. Rezzato

    Rezzato Puttering Along

    I dynamated the whole Trabant. Well rather used a product called Noico. It's much cheaper and works the same.
    The Trabant is noticeably more quiet. I added about 40lb in noise deadener. The quieter ride, solid feeling, and lack of rattles is worth the extra 40lb in weight.
    I only did this because I drive my Trabant three to four times a week.
  12. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Mine is still 6 volt for the time being but will eventually be converted to 12 volts when the battery dies. As far as I know they don't make 8 amp ATO type fuses. I just use 10 amp and they have been ok. Keep in mind most of the wiring on a 6 volt trabbi is the US equivalent of 12 and 10 AWG size which can handle allot more than 10 amps anyway. The fuses are there to protect the wiring more than the actual circuit. I did some testing tonight with an accurate meter on my LED headlights and fog light bulbs. Both high beams and the auxiliary lights pull less than 2 amps. The transformer is rated at 4 amps so I should be OK.
  13. ummeli

    ummeli Premium Member Forum Donor

    I'll be darned. I had no idea. Maybe I'll just buy an 8-way fuse box for 10 amp bladed fuses and install that instead. I really dislike those old ceramic 8 amp fuses.
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2017
  14. ummeli

    ummeli Premium Member Forum Donor

    Problem solved. Looking at the wiring schematics I noticed that the left side of the Trabi is wired differently than the right. Weird.

    Anyway, once I figured that out it was easy to get things working properly.
  15. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    Today i have put a new driveshaft hinge and a new hub on the trabi. Last weekend i put on a new fuse box.
    kev the builder likes this.
  16. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Finally got my 6 to 12 volt 4 amp converter yesterday in the post. The original order from November must have gotten lost in the mail so I sent the seller an email and they gladly sent me a new one.
    The idea is to place the "transformer" between the headlight switch and the dimmer relay. Just like if you were installing HID headlights.

    That way I'll be sending 12 volts to the dimmer relay which will feed 12 volts to both the low and high beams but 6 volts to all the other lights powered by the headlight switch. This is only a temporary deal until I convert the car over to 12 volts whenever the battery decides to give up the ghost. The battery is going to be the most expensive item in the conversion.

    I've had some issues with these LED bulbs from China. It seems some of these bulbs don't fit or don't work correctly.

    I ordered some H4 bulbs from a supplier and for some strange reason when plugged into the three prone connector, work on high/main beams but not low/dipped. But when bench tested both the low and high beams work just fine. Just not with all three prongs plugged together. These were tried on my Citroen. I haven't tested these particular H4s on any other car. Considering how the French wire cars up, wouldn't surprise me if it's the car's wiring and not the bulbs.

    Then I ordered some H3 fog light bulbs. Once again the LED filament was too large to fit through the hole! I'll have to post some photos of that.

    I just recently ordered some H1 low beams for my Subaru. Once again the LED portion was too large to fit through the hole in the lens. It seems some of these companies are just mounting a set of LEDs onto whatever base and not bothering to test to see if they actually fit.

    I recently installed some H3s bulbs in the lights on my Polaris ATV. This thing originally came with 30 watt halogens and was afraid the 55 watts were pulling too many amps and might fry my headlight switch. These LED bulbs when tested pull about 1/2 amp each.

    This time I had to bent the little tabs that holds the bulb in place outwards a bit in order to slide them into the housings then bend them back in a bit. But otherwise the fit and work.

    Here's what they look like. I actually shot this video to demonstrate my "Night Rider" light bar.

  17. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    Today i have mounted a small Denso 40a alternator and partially wired it. Will finish the job next weekend. Saved almost 3kg over the original dynomo.
  18. Steve

    Steve Loyal Comrade

    Just had a bit of trouble with my starter motor. I thought it was going to need a replacement, but I took it apart and found quite a bit of debris inside and I thought the brushes and armature were needing attention. So I took it down to my local alternator/starter motor engineer and he has fixed it up for only £40. Bearing in mind a reconditioned unit from Germany is 90 euros plus postage, I think I got a good deal. The starter now turns real fast and behaves like it should. Result. Think about that when yours needs attention.
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2018
  19. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    That's great and keeps a local company in business.
  20. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    I think there must be something going about,as my starter motor also died it all went poo shaped the other day my car wouldn't tickover only on choke so I pulled the carb to clean the blocked idle jet on reassembley the battery died so I jump started it but it still wouldn't idle and stalled,when I tried to restart it the starter motor siezed solid,when I stripped it down there was a load of rust and dirt inside after a good clean tho it was working fine again,I stripped the carb again and the idle jet end snapped of in the carb bugger 1 knackered carb so I've had to order another one which should be here in a couple of days I could have refitted the original one but thought I would persevere with the motorbike ones

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