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  1. mati0921

    mati0921 Loyal Comrade

    Kev, do you still have the original batttery cables, if yes, replace them with copper cables. :)
    The original aluminium cables have too much resistance in them causing all sorts of wierd trouble. :)
    one day my starter just clicked. think i tried 15 times before it turned over slowly, but got it running to get it home. put a charger on it and it would not start at all the next day. thought the battry was dead so took it to the store since it was still under warranty, but they would not take it since their tester said it was fine, then i heard about the cables going bad. no problems since. :)
  2. Steve

    Steve Loyal Comrade

    Yes, I have replaced my cables with new copper cored ones.
  3. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    yes i still have the original battery cables fitted i was going to change them but didnt as the resistance was very low,the starter siezed solid but since cleaning it out it spins over fine again,my battery was flat as the car had,nt been started for a few weeks and needed a good charge,if i start having any more battery issues i will be changing the leads ive been having carb issues with my mikuni copy carb the main jet is a std one but the idle jets not so hence not being able to alter the low speed fueling hopefully my new new carb will sort this
  4. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    I would be interested in a review on its running with a modern motorcycle carb. I have and work on many 2 stroke motorcycles, and is more than happy at setting them up.
  5. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    With my old motor bike carb the car ran smoother and accelerated better especially at higher speed running on the main jet it was lean at low speed when running on the pilot jet im hopeing to be able to get it better with my new cafb when it arrives
  6. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    Brilliant. I know there are ready set up kits available from Germany, but its good to do your own. The only issue with 2 stroke are that they won't tolerate being lean for to long. Its so easy to seize a 2 stroke. 4 stokes are more forgiving.
  7. Ron

    Ron Premium Member Forum Donor

    Hey all,

    First post in ages...! Rosie is going well, back on the road for the daily commute now the salt is gone! The only issues were the battery (I left the ignition on one night!), it just wouldn't hold any charge afterwards, but was pretty old. Also, I could feel a slight hesitation on pick-up, and the occasional cough/splutter at speed. I took the carb off and found a small piece of grass(!) stuck in the jet at the bottom of the bowl... how it got there I'll never know.

    The dreaded rust is getting more of a hold now, so this summer will probably be her last before coming off the road for a big sort out. Underneath is fine, but the roof frame (under the gutter) and front grille surround aren't looking too good. No holes, so not too bad. The plan is to get our other Trabi out (Keith), whose bodywork is just about perfect, and perhaps use Rosie's running gear to get him going quickly.

    I'll just go and peruse the site and catch up on all your Trabi tales, the pic was taken today through my workshop door as I was getting ready for home, a sight for sore eyes!

    Cheers all, Ronnie.

  8. IronJaw

    IronJaw Puttering Along

    I've spent the last couple of days working on the sunroof fitted to my car, from what I can tell it's a factory item. I've been checking out various period photos and it looks the same, and the operating procedure matches the factory manual. Anyway, at some point in the past someone has obviously had some trouble with a leak. To solve this they've created some evil mixture of silicone, epoxy and putty. After cutting, chipping and working at it I got the whole unit out the car and ended up having to use a wore wheel on an angle grinder to get the stuff off. I then had to repaint it and fit it back to the car. I then gave it a hose pipe test on shower for 5 solid minutes directly on top of it and nothing leaked. At this point I think it may have been condensation the PO had issues with.

    Anyway after this I couldn't help myself and took the car for a little run up and down my road. It drove well and the gear change was good, I am able to switch gears without letting go of the wheel and just using my fingers. It's delightful!

    Anyway I look forward to doing more work on this little car.

    bad roof.jpg Small Resin.jpg Roof Small.jpg New Roof.jpg
    Ron likes this.
  9. Austinpowers

    Austinpowers Loyal Comrade

    You did a nice job of refurbishing the sunroof. And just in time for the summer.
    IronJaw likes this.
  10. Steve

    Steve Loyal Comrade

    Wow well done Stu! That looks 100% better and no leaks! Bonus. keep up the good work.
    IronJaw likes this.
  11. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Great job! Don't you just hate botched (BOSCH) repairs?

    I haven't driven my Trabbi in a few weeks. I've been trying to dedicate my driving time to my Fiat 124 Spider and my Citroen 2CV I have neglected to drive for awhile. And also trying to sort out some electrical issues on my 68 Ford Fairlane which has not been driven in over 2 years so I can get it back on the road while I am restoring my Trabant this summer. I figure it's going to be down for awhile.

    Why am I always having to do electrical work to these old cars? It's always more electrical issues than mechanical issues.

    I've been saying this for years but looks like August is the date I'm going to start replacing the sills and some other sheet metal on the Trabbi and hopefully paint it by fall.

    While the plant was down, I decided to take the opportunity to make some of those discs out of Lexan (polycarbonate) for my electronic ignition system I put on the back burner. These have proven very difficult to make. Mainly cutting the adjustment arches to where they look pretty and the discs can be rotated for adjustment. Cutting a hole in the center of a disc is harder that it seems. I did find out that compact discs are made of the same material! Too bad AOL is no longer in business. They used to send those CDs and floppies through the mail like crazy back in the late 1990s.

    Then these will be covered on both sides with heavy duty aluminum foil for a proper ground using LockTite adhesive.

    If I was going to sell these systems I'd have these made using a C&C machine out of aluminum. But I did manage to make about 6 of them so far.

    Anybody who's interested shoot me an email.
  12. IronJaw

    IronJaw Puttering Along

    I almost forgot I also fitted a pair of older style indicators to my car this weekend too, I personally feel they look better. I won these on ebay, they're NOS and have a little bit of Patina about them so blend nicely with the rest of the car. I've added a photo of them fitted, you can see my XJ in the background there too. The bonnet on the Jag is nearly as long as the Trabbi! :p

    I also investigated and sorted the driver's window which would only go half way down, that's now fixed.
    I'm taking my time with this little car, but it's coming together well. I'm looking forward to when I put my first order in for some new parts from Germany. Front Small.jpg
    Ron and Steve like this.
  13. Austinpowers

    Austinpowers Loyal Comrade

    So im not the only one crazy enough to have a Jag and a Trabi then.
  14. Steve

    Steve Loyal Comrade

    Well today I took my latest Trabbi, the 1970 limousine, out for my first long drive in it since getting it legal for the road. Good power from the engine, but the gearbox whines quite a lot at 30-40 mph in top gear. Also, the steering wanders quite a lot. I know that's partly due to a worn track rod end. The biggest worry is vibration under power from the front axle. Ease off the power, and it's much less obvious. I'm suspecting worn drive shafts. Either bearings, universal joints, or both. So a strip down is needed before it goes on the road again. Ho hum!
  15. Steve

    Steve Loyal Comrade

    I have started to do the front axle jobs, and tackled the driver's side first. Got the big extension bar on the axle nuts expecting them to be tight. Oh no they weren't! The idiot who last tightened them got to about 20 lbs/ft instead of about 150 lbs/ft, although I did have to use the puller to get the drum off the taper. So far I have replaced the track rod end. We'll see what the drive shafts are like very soon.
  16. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    Have had a try at adjusting the rack yet?or is the play in the track rod end?
  17. Steve

    Steve Loyal Comrade

    I will see how much accuracy I have gained with the new part. There was definitely some play in the old one. Tonight I have got as far as determining that there is indeed excess play in the universal joint. Just the brake pipe to separate and then the hub will come away. Tomorrow I will continue while waiting for another Trabbi owner to come and collect the rooftop tent I have had up for sale. My other half won't entertain sleeping under canvas especially having to climb up on the car roof.
  18. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    If you have a couple of the larger sized people in there I bet it gets a bit wobbly especially when they turn over
  19. IronJaw

    IronJaw Puttering Along

    Sounds like fun Steve! Almost as much fun as I’m going to have sorting my drivers seat which has been welded into the car.

    Is there a Haynes style workshop manual for these cars?

    I don’t think you’re crazy, both Trabants and Jaguars are good cars.

    I love my Jaguar, I bought this one in 2016 and renovated her back to her showroom condition. She is one of the last steel body XJs made and was on the verge of becoming a wreck. I’ve had three XJ8s and really know my stuff on these cars. I wouldn’t have any other car for main use.

    Does anyone know where I might find Trabant paint codes? I’d like the code for Panama Green as I’m going to need to paint some parts of this car.
  20. BillB

    BillB Loyal Comrade Administrator Forum Donor

    I was just too cramped up in the drivers seat, so I made these extension rails for the seat mount. Moves the seat back 125 mm.
    Then I find out that someone in Germany is/was making almost the exact same "kit". Easy to make with some 1 1/2" x .25 thick bar.
    Drill, tap and countersink. A little rattle can finish and I am in a WAY more comfortable driving position (with the stock seats).


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