That's a nice looking trabi there Steve hope it's behaving itself for you and your enjoying it
It is running well and now has been spruced up around the bottom of the tailgate and the lower tailgate surround where the rust was appearing. With a little blow from the spray gun and the paint you had left, it looks pretty good from the back. The front will get a similar job before too long, once I get the garage sorted.
Painting the front grill will make a big difference
I’ve been busy on my Trabi, I’ve been stripping the car down to a shell to address the rust issues that have reared their ugly faces. What’s made the rust on the car unpleasant is that it could’ve been avoided if the person who applied the under seal to the car had done it properly. Instead they painted it over caked on mud trapped in the arches creating a moisture trap. Anyway, I’ll be having new arch quarters welded in, front corners and a new LH Sill also. There are a couple of little bits where fabrication is required, but my welding guy isn’t phased by this.
I stripped the car down slowly and methodically over a few afternoons, making sure everything was labelled and placed carefully in boxes which have a description of what’s inside on them. My loft has been used to store these bits where they’re safe out the way. I’ve placed a big order to a parts guy in Germany, Martin Heinz, who runs a little IFA garage there. He’s beaten a bigger supplier’s price and will be supplying all NOS parts.
So all what remains in the car is the glass, the wiring and the engine. I’ll be pulling the glass out this week as well as checking on and addressing any wiring problems. I’ll be fitting a blade style fuse box and improving any connections that look suspicious. I’m hoping to get the welding done in the new year and paint shortly after that. My aim is to have the car driving and on the road again in Mid Spring 2019.
Today I used our 1950's Metal lathe to make some spacers(since I lost the axle stub from the parts car). Now it is a really big bolt- adapted to the ID of the rear wheel bearings.
Good enough to drag the car out, and start the whole cutting it in half thing!
Were aiming for cutting off from the front sub frame bolts- forward. After the cotton fenders go away, me thinks a swift kick will knock the front half loose.
Not much holding it on there....
It all comes down to the trailer tongue weight. With the front half, and interior gone maybe thats just enough...
It shouldn't be too heavy at all, I can lift my car up and shift it so I imagine with the engine and front axle gone it will be almost like a wheel barrow.
My parts order has now been dispatched from Germany after a health related delay from the business owner, I'm looking forward to getting my bits. I don't need them just now, but I ordered them because I was concerned about the Brexit stuff and didn't want to get snarled up in that fallout. The car is almost a bare shell now, welding will be carried out in the new year and the paint will be soon after. Just the glass to remove now, but that can wait until just before the welding.
I've just installed the MBZA. It's fun to be able to move the firing point around on the fly and now I have a tachometer that I see on my phone. Very useful for working on the carburetor.
How did you achieve this? Is it some sort of kit you can buy? I'd be interested in one myself.
Fired it up and let it warm up. It's been a while due to vacation, disease, snow, rain, etc.
The idle stalling came back and seems to get worse. A little gas would keep it running, but it kept needing a little more and a little more and even when revving a bit, it would miss and stutter.
Might as well open the carb up and see if I can find anything in there. I want to flush the gas tank, too as paint was peeling off around the cap and falling inside. :/
Actually, the first thing I should look at is the fuel filter.
Clean out the fuel filter, drain and remove the tank, inspect it for leaks, foreign matter, etc., clean out the petcock, then clean/gap or replace the sparkplugs, check the mixture screw on top of the carb (really about the only idle adjustment on the economiser carburetor) , and then drive the car. I assume your car has electronic ignition, and it's timed correctly?
Trabis don't like standing around; they need to be driven on a regular basis. Once all the above is taken care of, and you drive it regularly, most of the problems will go away.
My Trabbi hasn't been driven that much since the driveshaft broke back in July. I have started it a few times since then but it seems to struggle if it sits for more than a few weeks. The other day I started it up just to move the car so the guy who came out to fix my garage door could work.
For some reason I fouled the plugs. I had to get out the starter fluid as well. Once I got the engine started, it smoked like hell.
I'm wondering if the oil in the gas separates over time. Then the oil sinks to the bottom of the tank.
The other idea is gasoline will evaporate but oil will not so the strength of the mixture will increase as the engine sits.
This seems to occur on any 2 cycle engine.
Part of this problem stems from the way one fills up a 2 stroke car these days. Many years ago (& I'm talking about the 1960-70s!) most filling stations, certainly in the United Kingdom, had a 2 stroke oil pump on the forecourt, so customers buying 2 stroke fuel, either for a car or a lawnmower told the attendant (remember them?-thought not!) what ratio they wanted & he (they were rarely "she"!) dialled it up & added precisely the correct amount of 2 stroke oil, mixed with the petrol as it went into the tank. As a child I can remember my Dad asking the guy to do this for our Flymo lawn mower. Nowadays we buy the 2 stroke oil separately and add it to the fuel, once we've filled up. When I had a Wartburg I filled up in 20 or 40 litre amounts, adding 1/2 or 1 litre of 2 stroke oil afterwards. Often I'd misjudge the refill & only get 35 litres of unleaded in, so by adding the oil it'd be running at 35:1 instead of the 40:1 Wartburg recommended. I also found it useful to rock the car a bit if I'd not used it for a bit, which shook up the fuel. This might sound mad but I found it helped with starting the car and it reduced the smoking on start-up.
Well, I finally sold my light blue Kombi to the owner of Cyprus Classic Car museum in Limmasol. It will be exported by sea container quite soon but will be in a bonded warehouse in Cyprus until February 2020 when the car will then be 30 years old ( to save import charges). So if you visit Cyprus in 2020, go take a look at my ex-Trabi and the other exhibits. Apparently, it may even be seen driven on the roads of Cyprus as the owner also allows certain exhibits to be rented for special occasions.
Have you now just got 2 trabis then Steve?my previous trabis now living in the us it's amazing how these little cars seem to spread about
Kev, nope. Bought another 601 saloon 1976 6 volt for spares. Taking delivery this week.
They have never sold 2 stroke fuel at the pump in the United States. None that I know of. I usually just buy about 30 gallons or around 120 liters at one time and mix up 20 liter batches at a time and fill the car up in my garage as needed.
I also like to pour the oil in the can then put gas on top of it.
Murphy oil gas pumps at Wal-Marts have this option where you can buy fuel additives while your filling up. I've never bought any but thought it would be cool if they had a 2 stroke oil option where you could select the ratio and it would mix it with your fuel.
new fan belt, new backup light switch. Next week: new hi-beam relay.
I’ve stripped out the interior, minus the headliner and drivers seat, stripped the panels off the body ready for welding and got together the relevant parts for sorting out a few things on the electrical system. Now that we’re in December the weather isn’t favourable for working outside on a car so for now I’ve put a cover on the car and will maybe look at getting stuff done in January. I’m booked in for welding work on the 1st February though, so I’ve not stopped.
I also had a delivery of parts from Deutschland, a nice big box of NOS Trabi parts. I’m looking forward to fitting these as I go along, it’s little details like this that make the difference.
I made yet another plate for my electronic ignition system. The #1 cylinder adjustment arches on this plate probably has way more adjustment than necessary but that's OK. You never can have too much adjustment when it comes to a 2 cylinder engine.
This plate does not have any up/down slots to adjust the air gap. I don't think that's a good way of adjusting the timing anyway.
Using a caliper, I measured the distance from the edge of the center of the pipe to the OD of the plastic ring (~7 mm) then wrapped enough electrical tape around the plastic ring to come up with 9 mm then placed the module up against it using my spare engine and made some marks for the mounting holes on the plate. Then removed the tape.
I got the top module (#1 cylinder) spot on but the bottom module still has too much advance. So the plan is do this again for the bottom #2 module but this time create an arch for the mounting screws so it can be rotated.
I think the reason I could not successfully build a wasted spark system is because the opposing magnets in the ring are not spaced perfectly 180 degrees apart. So I had to go with one magnet and two modules.
These modules were meant to go inside a distributor. Not meant to fire a coil directly so the fine tuning has been increased dramatically. Finding where the magnet comes in contact with the mosfet, transistor, whatever inside the module has become the most difficult part of this project. You can see from the top module I have painted a white reference mark. This seems to be where the coil fires.
The bottom module has some red paint but it's off just a hair to where it has something like 4 to 5 mm too much advance.
You can also see where I filled in the hole where the opposing magnet was located. At this position the #2 cylinder (bottom module) is a 4 mm BTDC.
I was going to wrap this project up Thursday but we got a blizzard (The finger of God) Saturday night while I was working on my set of night shifts. 12" of wet slushy snow. So I've been dealing with that on my off days. It seems it takes 4 times the effort to drudge through 12" of snow. We normally don't get a foot of snow in one whack. Maybe once every 10 to 15 years. And very seldom any measurable snow before Christmas. How do you guys up north deal with this stuff when it's that deep?
I bought my Subaru new 16 years ago and this was the first time I ever got it stuck and in my driveway! I couldn't even shovel my way out of it! I finally got myself out of this spot the following day below only to get stuck again behind my house! So I had to get Dad to come up with his F-150 to pull me out.
The next day I got Dad's tractor and used the mowing machine to knock the snow down from 12" to about 2" off my driveway. Believe it or not packing the snow down to a hard surface is much easier to drive on instead of trying to plow through it. It seems the snow kept getting packed up against the bumpers preventing the car from moving.
Kind of wish I still owned my AWD Explorer. I used to have two of them a '96 Mk2 and and an '06 Mk3. They would go anywhere but the quality of Ford products has suffered over the years...
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