Nuts and bolts will also fetch the loose paint off
I swished some gas/oil mix around. The problem was getting the stuff to go out the hole. I doubt it helped much but I did find a couple bits of random plastic in there I was able to pick out.
Put it all back together, found all the fuel leaks. It pretty much fired right up. Won't stay idling, though. :/
That might knock out the rest of the paint chips as well. Paint chips? Did some previous Hungarian owner try resealing the tank from inside with gasoline-proof paint? I have seen worse done: Spray-on rubber coatings, for example. What a mess!
Some crap might have found its way into the lines and carb. Flush it all out, remove the big screw on the side of the carburetor, let all the crap flow out and check the needle valves and float.
Heck, you might as well buy a whole new petcock and carb for it, really, when I think of all the work involved.....
The paint was just inside where the cap goes on. And it was definitely not gasoline-proof.
I took out and cleaned everything. Tank to carb. New needle and seat, new filters.
Just for the record, you should be able to use a dimmer switch from an 80s VW/Audi if you don't want to pay shipping from Germany on this part. I looked into this option when my dimmer switch failed but just so happen to have a spare. I'm not sure if this same switch would work on a 6 volt model. Unless you used one from an really old VW Type 1 that has 6 volt electrical system.
From what I remember, on the VW when the stalk is pulled back, this wire grounds the dimmer relay switch which makes it rotate. Where on the Trabi, when you pull the switch back it energizes the dimmer relay switch.
So it's just a matter of knowing which wire goes to what pin.
I was thinking of using one of those Mikini copies. Do you remember what jetting you finally ended up with?
I'm seriously thinking about re-installing the "fuel saver" carburetor. I ran it briefly after rebuilding it and I swear I think the engine started easier and ran smoother than the older style that came on the car (I also rebuilt). I had two carburetors and rebuilt both of them. I tried the fuel saver carburetor and it ran fine but eventually I starting having issues. I thought it was the carburetor but turned out the screws on the breaker plate had vibrated loose and the timing was bouncing around!
What I like about it most is the choke is tied into the throttle like the Solex on my Citroen. So when the choke is engaged it speeds up the idle. With the old style which does not have this fast idle mechanism, I find myself having to feather the throttle to preventing the engine from stalling until it completely warms up. Sometimes having to pull the parking brake at red lights and setting my foot on the accelerator to keep it from stalling. Once I've driven several miles, the engine does not stall.
Another thing I like about that carburetor is it has a choke instead of a fuel enrichment valve. I have flooded the engine by pulling the fuel enrichment valve out too far. Like you would a conventional choke.
I finally came to the conclusion to pull it out just enough to start the engine. It seems the colder it is outside, the more I have to open the valve. So if it doesn't start, pull it out a bit more until it does. Pulled out all the way dumps way too much fuel into the engine. I fouled a spark plug doing that once.
Well, thought I had everything all buttoned up. Got the car idling alright and it seemed to be fine as it idled for several minutes. Shut it down to put the tools away, get cleaned up and top up the fuel then go for a spin.
Started back up fine. Idled the same. Backed it out of it's parking spot and it died. And now it won't idle again.
trondd, sounds like a carb issue, if you're sure the lines aren't clogging up anymore. BTW I replaced all my fuel lines and cork fittings with e85-proof fuel line. It sure did help. But the dying while idling, sounds like a carburetor issue. Did you adjust the mixture screw on top of the carb? That's about the only thing that will keep the idle regulated on a Sparvergaser, since the linkage is preadjusted and any messing about with it makes the car race sometimes at idle on its own. It could be a stuck float or a clogged needle valve in the carb? Check that, too.
Just some stuff that I have experienced.
I cleaned/replaced most everything. New needle and seat. Same float, it's different from what came with the rebuild kit but it's not sinking and doesn't seem to be sticking. I had to adjust it a bit to keep the fuel from overfilling at rest and running out the overflow tube. I did have to tweak the idle mixture a bit. I think I am at about 1 and a half to 1 and 3/4 turns from closed.
The carb is a 28 HB 2
I am guessing there is still some junk in the idle circuit I missed.
I needed to go pickup a KIA part 30 miles away. Noticed Herr Trabi was popping oddly on deceleration. A few of my head bolts backed lose, again... Since I was determined to take the car, a quick rummage through the metric only bolt box-came up with a longer same type of bolt. Might be from a Toyota... Gonna need to drill and tap all of these before the 300 mile round to to Carlisle.....
Try the Nord-Lock fasteners. The best lock washer I've ever used.
Check also the O ring on the mixture screw. Sometimes it gets pretty hard and gets small cracks in it that admit air, messing with the mix.
I can't remember right off hand, is the HB2 the "old style" or the "fuel saver" carb.
When I got my 81 model, it would not hardly idle. I had to crank the idle speed up to about 1200 rpms just so it would idle. Every now and then I'd push in the clutch and it would stall.
I took it apart and gave it a good cleaning and apparently the idle circuit was blocked and was running off the main circuit. This is not much too the old style carbs.
HB2 is the old style.
Didn't know of an o-ring under the mixture screw... I looked in the manual and on Trabantwelt and it seems the float in mine is from the fuel saver carb. I do have the correct one (I just didn't know at the time which was correct) so I may just swap that out in case the wrong one doesn't work correctly (although everything was running fine when I got the car).
I'll look into it, thanks.
Had time to poke at the carb again. I pulled the main jet and idle jet. Found a little fleck of paint in the idle jet. I blew out the passages and put it back together and it idles again. Not sure for how long.
I might have to drain some fuel from the tank and see if it's coming out clean.
Idle seems a little rough. I might need to re-adjust the idle mixture. Not sure what the RPMs are either. Sounded like it wasn't hitting on both cylinders once in a while.
Something I've wondered about. If the car sits over the winter, the gasoline will evaporate but the oil will not so what might have started out at 50:1 with the tank topped off in the fall, might be closer to 30:1 by spring. Even the fuel evaporates from the fuel tank in my 2003 Subaru. I normally don't drive it in the summer. I topped the tank off in May, parked it over the summer in my garage and by November, about 3 or 4 gallons had evaporated in that length of time based on the fuel gauge when I started it.
I've been wondering if I need to adjust the idle mixture on my Trabbi. It's been awhile since I messed with the carburetor which was when I rebuilt it about four or five years ago. The idle speed is supposed to be set to around 700 rpms. I invested in one of those hand held tachometers you aim at a moving pulley. At 700 rpms the car idles a bit lumpy. The whole car shakes and the dashboard vibrates. I bumped it up to 900 rpms using this tach and seems to idle better but still a bit lumpy. I think anything above 1000 rpms, the engine will try to run off the main jet.
In cool weather, the engine tends to stall a few times when coming to a red light until the engine is completely warmed up which takes it about 4 to 5 miles. Once I get home, it idles without stalling. I don't drive with the "starter valve" open which may be my problem. I usually start the engine, shut the starter valve off and go. I have loaded up the engine with too much fuel letting it warm up before taking off with the starter valve on. But that may be why it's called a starter valve. It's used for starting the engine but not actually enriching the fuel mixture until the engine warms up like a choke does. That's why I was considering going back to the "fuel saver" carburetor because it has a choke and a fast idle circuit which are tied together.
I have flooded the engine and even fouled a spark plug a few times getting too gung ho with that thing. Like filling the parking lot at work with smoke in the morning watching my co-workers run to their cars . Yeah, it's fun but there can be consequences to it.
Once I use up my 40:1 mix, I'm thinking about going back to the 100:1 / 30 weight Opti-2 brand oil. I think the engine ran much better. I ran about 5 tank fulls of this stuff and the engine did not seem to suffer any ill effects. A guy I work with who works on lawnmowers on the side swears by it. He sells it and said he has never had a customer complaint from using it.
Few days ago, the 601s alternator started charging funny. That pesky little light would randomly come on the dash. Took everything apart, no shorts, and the brushes/ diodes were perfectly fine. While spinning the pulley by hand, it felt like the shaft was un balanced. Seems one of the pressed lobes around the wire wobbles at high speed- which in turn touches the inside of the case.
In other words it is shot. Since I have a 300 mile round trip in 1 week. Some drastic action had to be taken... After numerous pics, of cheap Alts. It now will be using one from a 92 Nissan Sentra( was rebuilt, and shipped for $29.99 total!), mounts are almost identical, plus internally regulated. Has beefy lugs too. Alas, it is for a serpentine belt- so the stock pulley was shortend just right. Shaft size is the same... Mainly concerned about gas, oil, and water getting inside it. Will make up a little shield/ jacket..
Still have another 601 alt, that bearings are coming for- will be a back up...
Almost done with the lower bracket, had to slot it over about 1inch(25.4mm). Should be able to use the stock belt too. Install pics to come if it all works out.
So far it is working well, nothing has exploded- or burned yet. Went with a 6 AWG wire for the output.
were you able to mount and wire the sentra alternator?
i ordered the Mikuni kit from TrabantWelt and there is a new bracket & belt included. I haven't started on the project yet as I have to drill holes in the engine shroud so I've ordered the hole saw and a little reluctant to drill holes in my car.
While doing this project I had considered converting to the ac delco single wire SI unit, There is nothing wrong with my current alternator but I have used the SI on my 1959 MGA and 1967 MGB, which were positive ground generators of about 35 amps. Also the SI is so ubiquitous that any parts store has them and they have the regular V belt pulley
Was the sentra alternator one wire to the battery like the SI ? i used about a 10 or 12 gauge wire with a fusible link and since the batteries in MGs are behind th e seats the wire goes from the alternator to starter solenoid.
The Mikuni project will be later this summer, I have the distributor to the daimler 250 at Advanced distributor so Jeff can work his magic and have to put a timing belt on the Figaro, I don't have any maintaince record and it has 85000 KM on it so I'm trying to get everything done on it.
I might try to make you tube videos of all those projects
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