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Trabant Ignition Timing

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matt-lmr Matt
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I thought sod it it doesnt run anyway so i will take of the magnetic field sensor and inspect it, i have it in my hands infront of me and cannot see anything wrong with it however two more questions-
The plastic square peg that slots into it should that just have a hollow hole through it or should there be something in it?
is there anything to look for on this? that might be causeing me all the issues?

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jseabolt Avatar
jseabolt James Seabolt
Mount Carmel, TN, USA   USA
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In reply to a post by matt-lmr, post: 9606, member: 934 Would it just be easier for me to buy the contact breaker ignition system kit from ldm and fit to the car and do away with the ebza system? can that be done?

I've seen more "improved" replacement systems for the EBZA system on Ebay.de. I think they combine the box within the plate. Where as the original systems used transistors, the newer units use integrated circuits instead.

Something similiar to the system I installed on mine which replaces the points. You could probably use the same system I'm using. Somewhat tricky to get setup right but works.

I know yours is a 12V system. I just wouldn't recommend the 6V system to anyone. They don't warranty the 6 to 12 V converter and I can see why. Mine fried within minutes. So I had to run it off my radio conveter.

For what it's worth..

Keri said she swapped out her EBZA system for breaker points. If you are on a budget..

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matt-lmr Matt
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Was the points system only fitted to 6v? or 12v aswell?
Does anyone else have any ideas as this has got me stumped :-(

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Matteo1 Avatar
Matteo1 Matteo1
ITALY, Italy   ITA
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It was factory fitted also in 12V system

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matt-lmr Matt
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Hi ok i might just put on the points sytem then as that cost 48euros and will fix the problem were as if i buy a new ebza control box that will cost me 78euros and may not fix the problem because the problem may still be with the magnetic field sensor which also costs 78euros
Unless anyone on here has had this problem and can advise what it is?

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Matteo1 Avatar
Matteo1 Matteo1
ITALY, Italy   ITA
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Mine has the EBZA system from factory and when it give up, I will fix it at any expense.
It is a "fit and forget" system, very reliable (it has been working fine for about 29 years now :-O ) and is less prone to failure due to moisture.

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jseabolt James Seabolt
Mount Carmel, TN, USA   USA
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My spare engine had a 12V alternator and the "fuel saver" 28H1-1 carb but had a breaker plate on it. Which seems to indicate it was from a 1984 model. Maybe a 1985.

Danzer sells new breaker plates for 28 Euros (unless you are figuring in shipping):

http://www.danzer-autoteile.de/Trabant-601/Elektrik/Unterbrecherplatte-vollstaendig::375.html

But you can also buy just the points and condensors and recycle your breaker plate.

They sell the other EBZA components for less than you mentioned.

Personally, I'd just get the 12V replacement system that combines everything on the circuit board plate. I think they are about 50 Euros on Ebay.de. It took me 5 attempts to get the ring installed correctly (to get the timing right) but I can walk you through it. The German to English instructions are real dodgy.

Does DHL rape you on shipping to the UK like they do Americans when it comes to shipping to the USA? DHL charges US$55 for anything up to a 2kg/11 lb package! That's ridiculous!

Don't quote me on this but the Royal Mail charges less than half that to ship a 10 lb package to the United States. WTF?!

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about 2 weeks and 5 days later...
matt-lmr Matt
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Just a new update, purchased the new magnetic field sensor fitted and still no luck still not firing on number one cylinder, there is no spark on number one i have brand new coils i have brand new spark plugs brand new ignition leads brand new magnetic field sensor i have switched the green and white wire to the coils to eliminate coil fault and basically there is not a signal going down the green wire to the coil, is this likley to be the ebza black box that is the fault? this is the only thing left to replace!
Any help
much appreciated.

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mati0921 Avatar
mati0921 mati0921
Biersted, Nordjylland, Denmark   DNK
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Mine did the same, where the white wire had no signal. new EBZA box did the trick. smiling smiley

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about 1 week and 5 days later...
matt-lmr Matt
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Fitted new ebza box still not firing on no:1 cylinder
So thats new ebza box
new coils
new leads
new spark plugs
new magnetic field sensor
new wiring
Heeeeeeeeeeeeellllllllllllppppppppppp!

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mati0921 Avatar
mati0921 mati0921
Biersted, Nordjylland, Denmark   DNK
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Now that is wierd.
try this:
Check for spark at sparkplug
check for spark at end of coil
Check signal from green or white wire from ebza box
Check power at the black-blue wire from ignition on both coils.
Let us know where the power is lost. smiling smiley

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mati0921 Avatar
mati0921 mati0921
Biersted, Nordjylland, Denmark   DNK
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Btw: i have a repair handbook where the ebza system is explained and procedure of testing the sensor and box. but it is in german, and my german is absolutely useless, but i can tace some scans of it if someone wants to translate into english. smiling smiley

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matt-lmr Matt
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Hi if you could that would be great my girlfriend is german so i will get her to read it out to me
Thank you :-)

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mati0921 mati0921
Biersted, Nordjylland, Denmark   DNK
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jseabolt Avatar
jseabolt James Seabolt
Mount Carmel, TN, USA   USA
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When you say you have replaced all the wiring, which wires? The ones leading to from the magnetic trigger disc to the control box? The ones leading from the control box to the ignition coil? What about the jumper wire that connects both the + sides of the coils together?

I'm not sure how the EBZA system is wired up but if it's like any other electronic ignition, there should be four wires coming off the trigger disc going to the control box, just based on the photo below (looks like four wires). But you say there are just two? A green and a white wires? Then at least one 12V+ wire leading from the coil to the control box. One 12V+ jumper wire connecting both + sides of the coils. Then two - wires leading from the control box to the - side of the coils. And a ground for the control box.



It sounds to me like the 12V+ jumper wire is bad or one of the wires coming from the trigger mechanism on the wheel has a short in it.

It's funny that I had the same problem with #1 cylinder not firing when I was running points. But in my case, it was the #1 points that was about worn out and was not making good contact because they were not seated correctly.

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