Todd Hildebrandt's Journal
Home Page: Todd Hildebrandt
Faribault, MN, USA
| Total Posts: 26 | Latest Post: 2015-06-26 |
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So, what do I have presently? Predator 212, cheap TAV2, pair of buggy seat springs, a front axle that I think is too thin (about 1/16th inch), a go kart rack&pinion, front spindles (think they are 5/8 bolt),rear hubs, Honda wheels 2 front & 2 rear w/junk tires, pedals, disc brake, sprocket (can't remember tooth count), rear bearings w/3 bolt cages, and couple steering wheels to choose from.
Now for the vision. I have an old tractor nose and hood from an Allis Chalmers Stylized WD45 with some rear fenders from a couple old trucks ('50 Chevy or '50 Ford) that would make nice rear bodywork. Been thinking of copying the Old 27 chassis with a little variation, 23" wide front and rear. That should work with the sheet metal I have. The thought is it would like a county fair racer a farm boy would have assembled.
Still need to locate some things, but this is a slow build. That said, I am sure dumb or repetitive questions may follow. Advice is always welcome and like my kids, I reserve the right to ignore it.
Thanks for a great forum! Now its time to build, the AC45 Special.
Started working on the front wheel never having worked on a cycle wheel before. I basically busted the inner bearing leaving the outer race in the hub and drove out the outer bearing. Here is where I saved my own bacon, I clamped 2 small vice grips on the of the race where the notch in the hub is, then tapped it out with a drift. Wiped down the hub and measured it at 37mm.
After looking over the rear wheel and not seeing a bacon saving notch a new plan was hatched. A drift was angled through the hub just catching the opposite bearing. Tapping with a small hammer the bearing started to move, the drift was then moved to the other side to work it out evenly, L-R-L-R. Easy peasy. Second bearing was tapped out using a 3/8 drive extension. Wiped the hub down and thought about the mods needed for mounting.
Feeling good so far. Tomorrow the other pair are scheduled to arrive. A little nervous as the hubs are fully assembled. More patience and learning.
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Pulled the springs off the shelf to check the eye bolt size. They were so close to accepting a 3/8" bolt. Brought out the torch to warm the ends and got the 3/8 bolts to fit . I found some 1 1/2 x 3 x 1/8 in the scrap bin that the spring slipped nicely inside. Cut it up to make the stationary mount, bolted them together to shape them on the belt sander. About halfway through shaping the worn out belt split and flew off. Going to grab extras tomorrow. Then proceed to making the shackles. Any opinions on a good length?
Hope to have a couple pictures up by Sunday evening.
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Almost finished with the front spring hardware. There are two pieces of solid stock that need to be drilled for the shackle bolt, they will get welded in the frame.
Made an attempt at reworking an old banjo wheel for a cyclekart. A length of 3/8 round stock was clamped to a 10 inch brake rotor then wrapped around it. Not as smooth as I was hoping for. But it is now a 10 1/2" wheel down from 15". Not sure if it will be used yet, the center hub is aluminum with something like a 7/8" 50 spline mount. That's above my skill level.
Pictures as promised. Tomorrow is truck day, pretty sure cycle kart thoughts will happen.
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Started design work on the frame. It's a hybrid of Old #27 and the Monocar just a little wider, I'm a big guy. 8 foot side rails, 66 inch wheel base, 24 inch rear width, 20 inch front. Hopefully that won't make me feel squeezed on the sides.
Made the go/whoa pedal system. It should also hold the base of the steering column. Was going to go with a rack&pinion but ordered steering links also. I'll have both on hand when I get to that point.
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Dennis helped with some info from the Monocar, thanks buddy. Also saw something on the Marmon Wasp that was interesting. Using 1 1/2" square tube 1/8: wall.
Here are my designs, Feel free to chime in.
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