1935 Miller-Ford Indy 500 Race Car

I ordered a 4 x 8 piece of 3003 .040 aluminum, and had it delivered to the house. When I got home from work, I saw that it was white. Both sides. Hmmm.
The sales guy didn't mention it would be white. But I decided to give it a try.
If it works as well as mill finish, I'm one step ahead because when it comes time to paint it. I won't have to mess with zinc chromate primer on the bare aluminum. I can just sand this a little and paint it.
Well, all the hammering I've done so far have yet to blemish that white paint they put on it. It doesn't crack, peel or chip, no matter what I do to it.
So I'm going for it.
So far, I have a couple side engine compartment panels (front - not where the engine really is), and the bottom side panels are made and temporarily clamped on.
The engine compartment side panels on the Miller had some bumps to clear some component underneath, so I made a couple of those for style. They call them "speed blisters".
I don't know, but if they're "speed" blisters, they should make it faster, right?

BTW, my english wheel should be delivered sometime this week too.

Speedometer is done. There will be three more gauges but I haven't made the bezels or glass yet. I'm pretty happy with the dash so far.

I had to bolt the front suspension back on to figure out where the brake fluid reservoir could go, and I got carried away.
I put everything that I have done to this point back on, just so I could take a couple pics. It's starting to look like a race car.

I spent hours on this throttle linkage. I made the bracket, cable clamp, arm, and arm pedestal. I used one of the springs off the original Predator throttle assembly for a return spring. It connects to a bracket screwed to the fan cover. I had to raise the tank about 3/8 of an inch to clear the cable and clamp. It works perfectly now, wide open when the pedal hits it's stop and idle when the pedal returns to normal position.




Sorry this posted twice. I don't know how I did that. It was the first time I used my new phone to post something. How do you delete a post?

I spent hours on this throttle linkage. I made the bracket, cable clamp, arm, and arm pedestal. I used one of the springs off the original Predator throttle assembly for a return spring. It connects to a bracket screwed to the fan cover. I had to raise the tank about 3/8 of an inch to clear the cable and clamp. It works perfectly now, wide open when the pedal hits it's stop and idle when the pedal returns to normal position.

I'm dragging my feet on starting body panels, so I stayed busy this weekend with the pedal assembly. I bought a pair of those cheap go-kart pedals you find on ebay. The pedal arms are a little short to mount them on the floor and have the foot pad anywhere close to the ball of my foot, so I built this to hold everything. It will mount in the frame above the floor, so the pedal pads are better lined up with my size 10 1/2 foot. The master cylinder is the usual one you see on a lot of these karts. I built an adjustable positive stop for the gas pedal that works in both directions, with a return spring on the rod. The throttle cable will attach to the frame just behind the arm on the gas pedal rod. Then I welded 4 tabs into the frame to bolt this assembly to. I think it turned out pretty good.